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 ADVANCED
Rainy Wednesday Tower
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Balcony, The TR 
Birnam Wood T 
Cerebration T,TR 
Cliff's Coitus T,TR 
Double Overhang T,TR 
Eave of Destruction T 
False Alarm Jam T,TR 
Foreplay T,TR 
Friendly Banter T,TR 
Green Bulge TR 
Hare-Brained Scheme T,TR 
Hirsute TR 
Jungle VIP TR 
Laundry Chute T 
Mezzanine, The T,TR 
Miss Piggy's Pleasure T,TR 
New Light Waves TR 
Orgasm T,TR 
Orgasm Direct T 
Out of the Woods T,TR 
Resolution TR 
Resurrection TR 
Second Balcony T,TR 
Second Coming TR 
Unnamed 5.4 T,TR 

Orgasm 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 4,603
Submitted By: Tom Anderson-Brown on Oct 26, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (65)
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Jan Brown smearing to reach the undercling

Description 

Orgasm is in the Bedroom Amphitheater west of Rainy Wednesday Tower. Start at the inside corner below the sizeable roof. Climb up the corner on 5.6 terrain. Under the roof, move to the wall on the right (facing west) and smear your feet up as high as you can, then reach for a left hand undercling in a shoebox sized notch. Once past the roof continue up the face to the top.

Protection 

Small to medium pro, some longer slings for the roof.


Photos of Orgasm Slideshow Add Photo
Foreplay and Orgasm
BETA PHOTO: Foreplay and Orgasm
just over the crux_
just over the crux_
Jan Brown locked on to the undercling
Jan Brown locked on to the undercling
Photo- Joey
Photo- Joey
Jan Brown above the roof.  Some might call this thin section the crux.
Jan Brown above the roof. Some might call this th...
Orgasm Anchor setup
BETA PHOTO: Orgasm Anchor setup
Joel at the Roof. Mid '90s?
Joel at the Roof. Mid '90s?
Bob almost at the roof
Bob almost at the roof
Mike Lopera exiting the roof on Orgasm. Photo Dan F.
Mike Lopera exiting the roof on Orgasm. Photo Dan ...
Photographer- Joey
Photographer- Joey
Mike Lopera on Orgasm. Photo Dan F.
Mike Lopera on Orgasm. Photo Dan F.
Pretty thin pro above the roof. Photo: Josh Haq
Pretty thin pro above the roof. Photo: Josh Haq
Kris just under the roof
Kris just under the roof
Orgasm anchor setup Bedroom wall
BETA PHOTO: Orgasm anchor setup Bedroom wall

Comments on Orgasm Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 29, 2011
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
Apr 24, 2007
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Despite appearances, this is a pretty good lead. It reminds me a bit of the Gunks, what with passing those big roofs. Just take your time and get good gear after the roof, as the crux tends to sneak up on ya.
By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Jun 12, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

The pro seems pretty good when I was checking it out. Great climb! The roof is so amazing. I'll gear up for the lead soon.
By Paul Campbell
From: Pewaukee, WI
Jun 12, 2009
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Super classic climb. The roof was tons of fun. I'm totally gonna lead this before John because I'm awesome.
By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Jun 12, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Oh ya...When you start clipping the first piece...I'm gonna pull you off the wall! Then as you lay on the ground with your broken bones, writhing in pain, I'll send with the ease of a Jedi.
By Ryan Strong
From: Golden, CO
Sep 7, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

led this climb last weekend...wasnt sure how pro would be but the i was able to sow the roof up with 3 pieces and after the roof you get to test your skill placing gear on the fly!! ended up whipping on a shitty nut placement but it held...2 moves from the onsight!
By NickinCO
From: colorado
Jun 4, 2011
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

top roped it today without issue, I definitely thought the crux was right after the roof. Awesome climb, will lead it next time I'm on it. I gave it a PG13 rating for the first 20' of the route that was pretty runout unless you cheat over and place gear on foreplay.
By Bryan Keller
From: Madison, WI
Sep 25, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R

I had a hard time finding anywhere to put protection once I got out from underneath the roof. The cracks are thin and shallow and taper outward. I placed a nut that was iffy and then topped out. I would say it's 'R' because of the top face (unless I missed an obvious bomb-proof placement).
By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Sep 26, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Bryan, that's the nut that almost everybody who leads this route gets in. I don't think it's deserving of an R rating. Just ask Ryan Strong... he whipped on that piece! Thatta boy, Strong!
By Ryan Strong
From: Golden, CO
Sep 27, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

As soon as you pull through the roof and establish on the face you are able to reach down and place a bomber nut near foot level. The second "shitty" (#3 bd) nut was placed a few moves higher. The route protects just fine , the second nut is only to prevent a "above last pro fall". Good cam placements are available just after the face crux.
By Bryan Keller
From: Madison, WI
Sep 27, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R

Thanks for the gear beta, I guess I'll have to hunt a little harder next time I'm up there.
By Tradoholic
Sep 29, 2011

Sometimes at DL bomber gear can be very hidden, actually it's alot of times. The rock forces some creative thinking for sure.

Safety rating is pretty subjective and perhaps some one climbing at their limit on this would find it R rated. The definition of "R" is probably murky as well. As with any DL lead the gear is tricky and the ground is close.