Orgasm is in the Bedroom Amphitheater west of Rainy Wednesday Tower. Start at the inside corner below the sizeable roof. Climb up the corner on 5.6 terrain. Under the roof, move to the wall on the right (facing west) and smear your feet up as high as you can, then reach for a left hand undercling in a shoebox sized notch. Once past the roof continue up the face to the top.
Small to medium pro, some longer slings for the roof.
By Jay Knower Administrator From: Campton, NH Apr 24, 2007 rating: 5.85b16VI-15HVS 4c
Despite appearances, this is a pretty good lead. It reminds me a bit of the Gunks, what with passing those big roofs. Just take your time and get good gear after the roof, as the crux tends to sneak up on ya.
Oh ya...When you start clipping the first piece...I'm gonna pull you off the wall! Then as you lay on the ground with your broken bones, writhing in pain, I'll send with the ease of a Jedi.
By Ryan Strong From: Golden, CO Sep 7, 2010 rating: 5.95c17VI17HVS 5a
led this climb last weekend...wasnt sure how pro would be but the i was able to sow the roof up with 3 pieces and after the roof you get to test your skill placing gear on the fly!! ended up whipping on a shitty nut placement but it held...2 moves from the onsight!
By NickinCO From: colorado Jun 4, 2011 rating: 5.8+5b16VI-15HVS 4c PG13
top roped it today without issue, I definitely thought the crux was right after the roof. Awesome climb, will lead it next time I'm on it. I gave it a PG13 rating for the first 20' of the route that was pretty runout unless you cheat over and place gear on foreplay.
By Bryan Keller From: Madison, WI Sep 25, 2011 rating: 5.85b16VI-15HVS 4c R
I had a hard time finding anywhere to put protection once I got out from underneath the roof. The cracks are thin and shallow and taper outward. I placed a nut that was iffy and then topped out. I would say it's 'R' because of the top face (unless I missed an obvious bomb-proof placement).
By Andy Hansen From: Longmont, Colorado Sep 26, 2011 rating: 5.85b16VI-15HVS 4c
Bryan, that's the nut that almost everybody who leads this route gets in. I don't think it's deserving of an R rating. Just ask Ryan Strong... he whipped on that piece! Thatta boy, Strong!
By Ryan Strong From: Golden, CO Sep 27, 2011 rating: 5.95c17VI17HVS 5a
As soon as you pull through the roof and establish on the face you are able to reach down and place a bomber nut near foot level. The second "shitty" (#3 bd) nut was placed a few moves higher. The route protects just fine , the second nut is only to prevent a "above last pro fall". Good cam placements are available just after the face crux.
By Bryan Keller From: Madison, WI Sep 27, 2011 rating: 5.85b16VI-15HVS 4c R
Thanks for the gear beta, I guess I'll have to hunt a little harder next time I'm up there.
Sometimes at DL bomber gear can be very hidden, actually it's alot of times. The rock forces some creative thinking for sure.
Safety rating is pretty subjective and perhaps some one climbing at their limit on this would find it R rated. The definition of "R" is probably murky as well. As with any DL lead the gear is tricky and the ground is close.