Orgasm 

Despite appearances, this is a pretty good lead. It reminds me a bit of the Gunks, what with passing those big roofs. Just take your time and get good gear after the roof, as the crux tends to sneak up on ya.

The pro seems pretty good when I was checking it out. Great climb! The roof is so amazing. I'll gear up for the lead soon.

Super classic climb. The roof was tons of fun. I'm totally gonna lead this before John because I'm awesome.

Oh ya...When you start clipping the first piece...I'm gonna pull you off the wall! Then as you lay on the ground with your broken bones, writhing in pain, I'll send with the ease of a Jedi.

led this climb last weekend...wasnt sure how pro would be but the i was able to sow the roof up with 3 pieces and after the roof you get to test your skill placing gear on the fly!! ended up whipping on a shitty nut placement but it held...2 moves from the onsight!

top roped it today without issue, I definitely thought the crux was right after the roof. Awesome climb, will lead it next time I'm on it. I gave it a PG13 rating for the first 20' of the route that was pretty runout unless you cheat over and place gear on foreplay.

I had a hard time finding anywhere to put protection once I got out from underneath the roof. The cracks are thin and shallow and taper outward. I placed a nut that was iffy and then topped out. I would say it's 'R' because of the top face (unless I missed an obvious bomb-proof placement).

Bryan, that's the nut that almost everybody who leads this route gets in. I don't think it's deserving of an R rating. Just ask Ryan Strong... he whipped on that piece! Thatta boy, Strong!

As soon as you pull through the roof and establish on the face you are able to reach down and place a bomber nut near foot level. The second "shitty" (#3 bd) nut was placed a few moves higher. The route protects just fine , the second nut is only to prevent a "above last pro fall". Good cam placements are available just after the face crux.

Thanks for the gear beta, I guess I'll have to hunt a little harder next time I'm up there.

Sometimes at DL bomber gear can be very hidden, actually it's alot of times. The rock forces some creative thinking for sure.

Safety rating is pretty subjective and perhaps some one climbing at their limit on this would find it R rated. The definition of "R" is probably murky as well. As with any DL lead the gear is tricky and the ground is close.