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Orgasm Direct 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c [details]
FA: first lead Rich Bechler, Dale Moir, Steve Sangdahl
Page Views: 1,951
Submitted By: Steve Sangdahl on Mar 23, 2003
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (23)
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Ted's about halfway up direct. i'm on the bluff on...

Description 

Yet another classic DL lead. Climb to the right of Orgasm. I seem to remember pretty good gear and a fixed pin (pin is gone now). Good luck and pull down, cut loose and throw up !@##


Protection 

Usual DL stuff.



Photos of Orgasm Direct Slideshow Add Photo
orgasm direct
orgasm direct
Almost there!
Almost there!
photographer agnes szara
photographer agnes szara
Great moves
Great moves
this climb was fun
this climb was fun
On the crux.  c. 2008
On the crux. c. 2008
Comments on Orgasm Direct Add Comment
Show which comments
By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Nov 15, 2006

I think the crux piece is a blue metolious tcu stuck straight in perpendicular to the wall.

By Seth Dyer
Nov 16, 2006

It was a purple Metolious that saved my a$$ (especially since the piece below it got yanked out) when I took a fall on my first attempt. Stuck straight into a pin scar I think....

By Sean Luster
Sep 17, 2007

I really enjoyed this route on TR, though it wore the hell out of my fingers. Really there are 2 main problems
1) the early couple of moves, which aren't particularly difficult but because of the sharpness of the crimp are pretty unpleasent
2) the very thin crack climb at the crux of the route - this felt like a gym climb to me, from the very precise sequence that I needed to follow (maybe a stronger climber can improvise but I needed to get every move right) to the very scant, but very important, footholds.

Once you get past the crux it's suddenly a 5.7 climb. I'd really recommend this route to anyone climbing in this range. Way over my head for trad so I can't comment on gear placement but it looked pretty sketchy

By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Jun 12, 2009
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

Amazing climbing. Good rests. I'm not sure what sharp crimps you are speaking of Sean. I don't remember a single one that hurt, especially in the beginning. The crux is certainly a key sequence. Super technical feet, not like a gym climb (cause the gym is a mock of outside)...just typical Devil's Lake climbing.

By randy baum
From: Minneapolis, MN
May 24, 2010

seth, i second that. crux takes purple TCU. (just make sure you place it in the higher, deeper thin crack). also, take a red and orange cam for the horizontal below the crux. it's also nice to equalize them with a sliding x.

fun climb, with a fun (and easy) runout down low and nice and technical moves at the crux. do it!

By NickinCO
From: colorado
Jun 4, 2011

Can't believe people lead this. Didn't have a problem on it on top rope until the crux half way up and I couldn't figure out the feet. Will try again.

By Isaac Therneau
From: Rochester, MN
Aug 9, 2012
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c R

Anyone know why this climb has never been "R" rated? "edit" Whelp, I'm going to be honest and give it an "R" as I recall placing three pieces and only one of them kept you off the deck while doing the crux.

By Tradoholic
Aug 9, 2012

I tried to OS this one day, terrifying. It's probably "X"!

By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Aug 9, 2012
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 6a

Because you need a ballsack the size of Zeus' to lead this thing... and if you've got that, silly severity ratings don't apply to you.