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YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Scott Ayers & Doug Jaffe, 1989
Page Views: 4,415
Submitted By: C Miller on Oct 31, 2006
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O.R.G.asam (5.11a) in the Upper Gorge. Photo by Ty...


Boulder up to a high first bolt (optional gear here) and then lieback your way up the splitter crack/flake to finish with a seam on a steep slab. Decent crack climbing skills will negate the need for anything but quickdraws, but if unsure take some gear.

Originally done with only a couple of bolts and gear (and rated 10d), this route slowly evolved over time as more bolts were added here and there, and now stands as a fully bolted and totally classic sport route.


This is the striking crack line on the right side of the Dihedrals, and is located between Bushfire (5.12c) and Slackjaw (5.10a).


10 bolts, anchors

Photos of O.R.G.asam Slideshow Add Photo
O.R.G.asam (5.11a), Owens River Gorge. <br />Photo by Tyler Logan.
O.R.G.asam (5.11a), Owens River Gorge.
Photo by Ty...
Having fun on my favorite route.
Having fun on my favorite route.
Aaron Cassebeer climbing O.R.G.asm Photo: Paisley Close
Aaron Cassebeer climbing O.R.G.asm Photo: Paisley ...
Aaron Cassebeer on O.R.G.asm. Photo: Paisley Close
Aaron Cassebeer on O.R.G.asm. Photo: Paisley Close
dr. doolitte
dr. doolitte
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 29, 2011
By Isaac T.
From: Rockville, MD
Dec 12, 2006
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c R

This route seemed a little runout to me, the first 15 feet to the first bolt is a little sketchy. After that it is just hard pumpy laybacking. Super fun though, all the way to the end.

By outdooreric
From: Lyons, CO
Mar 25, 2007
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

I always use a couple of pieces (.75" and 1.25") to supplement the spaced first two bolts. There are potential placements higher, but I haven't found them to be necessary.

By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Jul 3, 2008

Why is this crack bolted?? Why bolt a crack in the first place. I sport climb, but not cracks. Bolts belong on unprotectable faces, not on perfectly protectable cracks.

By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
Jul 3, 2008

Since you are asking on each route, I'll post for each route:

The LADWP enforces a strict "no tradding" rule in the Gorge as part of the use agreement. Bolts only! First offense is a confiscation of any hardware deemed "Trad" and a $50.00 fine payable to the ASCA.

By 1Eric Rhicard
Jul 3, 2008

What happens when someone removes bolts to make a route a trad route?

By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
Jul 3, 2008

The route is "closed" to climbing and the crack is put on the short list to be cemented up.

By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Jul 4, 2008

I asked on 2 routes. But then I noticed so many, I figured I would just ask in the main area. Thx again for responding.

By Gaar
From: Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Oct 17, 2008

Great route....Did it on gear only this week....Really fun movement, on bulletproof rock. Rack= Single full set of stoppers, doubles or triples in Grey TCU - Orange TCU top slab is a little runout, you can get a good yellow TCU deep in a hold about 10feet past the lip and thats about it

By Paul Rezucha
From: Alameda
Apr 13, 2009

Is it okay to use trad gear to supplement bolts if you feel they are a bit too far apart? Thanks!

By J. Albers
From: Colorado
Oct 23, 2009

Guys, zee Fish is F'ing with you. There ARE trad climbs in the Gorge. John, if they bolted it, there is probably a reason. The east side of the Sierra's have a great local community with a wide range of ethical stances. The locals do a great job of balancing trad and runout bolt ethics with modern sport climbing. Best.

By Simon Hatfield
From: Oakland, CA
Aug 29, 2011
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

This route has 10 bolts. Hook anchors.