|Coal Pit Buttress
This is a variation to Nanooks of the North or Refugees From Reality, which ever way you approach it. From Refugees climb up and left to large dirt shelf. From Nanooks walk to the right before the 5.10 pitches on the same dirt shelf. There is a bolted belay on the shelf. From bolted belay walk around the corner ( east) and start up the slab angling toward the corner/roof.
P1. Start on slab angling left to bolt, clip bolt, crank mini roof and move right onto the slab towards the left facing steep corner. Climb up the steep corner protecting it w/ TCU's to the stance above the tree. Reach up and find hard to see bolt. Climb straight up passing one more bolt to a fun finish. Make your way to anchor. 5.10
P2. From anchor crank hard start to get established on the slab. Follow seam/corner to the bolt. Move up and right pulling the steep section to get onto another slab. Climb up ino the corner, clip the bolt crank the move. Enjoy super fun dihedral climbing to anchor. 5.9+. Long 118'
Established in a funky half ass fashion of 1/2 ground up 1/2 not.
Rack: QDs and a Standard rack with doubles on TCUs is nice. Bring a 70M rope. The rap from the top of the last pitch eats up the whole rope BE CAREFUL!! It is possible to rap from the mank on nanooks or from the dirt shelf bolted belay make a short rap (west) to Refugees top anchor.
Jun 4, 2006
Fun route that doesn't deserve a bomb. Its probably at LEAST one star. The second pitch is way cool, and the top has great views.
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Nov 9, 2008
Sounds like "The Jacket", that ring a bell?