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Organ Pipes

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Northern Buttress 

Organ Pipes  


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Administrator: Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Byron Murray on Mar 23, 2008
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Description 

Climbing on The Pipes is serious. Occasional loose rock, complex route finding and a sense of exposure heightened by the kilometre drop down to sea level all contribute to a wilderness adventure. As Phil Robinson said in the 1981 edition:
"In terms of mileage of routes, skinned knuckles, expenditure of effort and annual traffic, the Organ Pipes is the major focus of climbing activity in Tasmania."
This is still true today. Yet all this fun is just 20 minutes from the centre of the city.

A number of separate buttresses up to 120m high of vertical dolerite, typically in columns. The rock is very compact, though there is surface exfoliation in places due to bushfires. Large blocks that look precariously stacked are mostly just that. Be especially wary in spring, as frost action is instrumental in loosening previously solid blocks. Vegetation has crept back onto the less frequented routes and may need gentle gardening as you go. For more information check out thesarvo.com or Climb Tasmania A Selected Best Guide by Gerry Narkowicz.

Getting There 

An access track to the bottom of the Pipes starts at the end of the small parking bay on the LH side of the road 2.7 km past the Springs.
Parking can be a bit of a pain. The parking bay can accommodate five cars at a squeeze IF cars are parked perpendicular to the road but at weekends it fills up rapidly and you are left with the alternatives of creative parking on the verge - not recommended - or parking at the Springs or the Chalet (ample parking but a longer walk), or parking at the summit and walking down. There have also been some cases of theft from cars so be warned: don't leave anything valuable in your car that might attract thieves.
From the LH end of the parking bay, a definite track leads straight up the hill through a boulder field to meet the Organ Pipes Track

Climbing Season



Weather station 14.5 miles from here

2 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',0],['5.9',1],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Organ Pipes
On P2 just about to surmount the ridge.

Pulpit Chimney 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b  Australia : Tasmania : ... : Northern Buttress
Great casual climbing with very straightforward protection and less exposed feel. It is possible to get down with one rope by rapping off the back side of the feature rather than down into the Chasm.Pitch 1: Climb directly up the chimney past the detached chockstones to a ledge below the Canopy Chockstone. Move R onto the face and mantelshelf up onto a ledge from where the chockstone can be surmounted - a committing but easy move.Pitch 2: Continue up onto the ridge to easier climbing and scrambl...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

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