Organ Pipe Spire - The Weird Fun
5.10 YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British PG13
Avg: 2 from 2 votes
Type: | Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 3 pitches, Grade II |
FA: | James Stover, Paul Stoner |
Page Views: | 1,257 total · 8/month |
Shared By: | Airbiscuit on Sep 22, 2010 |
Admins: | Jesse Zacher, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Description
P1: Grovel, thrutch, and dust your way up the vertical garbage chute above. Work you way up the initial thirty feet (5.10) to where the climbing eases a bit and then on to either a squeeze through the hole (immpossible for fatties like me)or up through the overhang - which is much easier that it looks. Climb up the ramp (5.4) and belay at the ledge from hard to get natural anchors.
P2: Climb up the super chossy pedestal and into the Sweet Chimney. Climb for 60' without gear (5.8 PG-13) double up your pieces in the lone crack and then fire up the remaining 20' and onto the sketchy slab for another 30' (5.5 R/X)) to a great ledge and another natural anchor.
P3: Take turns climbing the remaing 10' to the summit on over and down to the original anchors from the Carter Route. (5.9 PG-13)
Location
Drop in at the Organ Pipes Overlook (you need a seventy meter which barely makes it - the knot need to be a the edge) scramble down, around, and over to the notch between the two towers. You can also reach it from the Sentinel Spire drop in.
Descend Aces and eights off the backside with a single seventy or down Enders Games via a single then a double rope rappel.
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