Oreo  5.7

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Type:  TR, 1 pitch Consensus:  5.7 [details] FA:  Submitted By:  dragons on May 27, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: This is the pentagonal chunk of rock which is cent...

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Description 

The crux is getting from the pentagonal overlap of rock, up over the bulge of rock to a nice ledge. There is a decent hold to help you, but you have to hunt for it.

Once you're on the ledge, you're faced with a short, shear rock face covered in tiny crimpers.

Location 

This route is described with a rough sketch on p. 107 of Boston Rocks, 2nd ed.

On the center right of Snacktime Crag is a pentagonal overlap of rock about 5 feet high. Locate the top of this rock, and go a little right of that. This is where the route starts. Climb up straight from here, crossing a bulge of rock to get to a ledge. Then climb up about 5 feet of shear face covered in small crimpers.

The route is similar to "Devil Dog", but it is not quite as awkward getting over the bulge area.

Protection 

Top rope. Good trees are 5-10 feet back from the edge.