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Hard-man Glenn Schuler warming up on Oreo 5.10c/d.
Clark's guide says of "Oreo", "Hard moves at bottom and top, softer sweet stuff in between" and that's quite accurate. Thin moves to the first bolt if you go straight at it or start right-ish and move over to the bolt. Then 5.8-5.9ish monster jugs through the middle to a thin roof/bulge to finish.
The Foley "Taos Rock" book suggests to stem the start using the right wall and then to grab the chains for the finish--neither of which is necessary. For the chains-clip, just go a bit further and grab the right edge of the Super Slab wall.
"Oreo" is the right-most route on the Super Slab. There is a belay bolt on the wall to the right at ground-level. It seems a bit far from the Super Slab wall but makes for a good dog (and kids) tether point.
8 bolts to chains with steel carabiners.
Andy leading Oreo. At the sweet stuff in the middl...
About two-thirds of the way up "Oreo" on...
Jen Hoffman enjoying a beautiful fall day by endul...
top roped to clean, enjoy the really cool view!
Sep 19, 2015
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hardest start of any route on this wall, also the most sustained.