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Super Slab
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Boltaneer S 
Clast Action S 
Full Sail S 
Oreo S 
Super Arete S 

Oreo 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 85'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Gary Clark?
Page Views: 758
Submitted By: Jason Halladay on Mar 31, 2007

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Hard-man Glenn Schuler warming up on Oreo 5.10c/d.

Description 

Clark's guide says of "Oreo", "Hard moves at bottom and top, softer sweet stuff in between" and that's quite accurate. Thin moves to the first bolt if you go straight at it or start right-ish and move over to the bolt. Then 5.8-5.9ish monster jugs through the middle to a thin roof/bulge to finish.
The Foley "Taos Rock" book suggests to stem the start using the right wall and then to grab the chains for the finish--neither of which is necessary. For the chains-clip, just go a bit further and grab the right edge of the Super Slab wall.

Location 

"Oreo" is the right-most route on the Super Slab. There is a belay bolt on the wall to the right at ground-level. It seems a bit far from the Super Slab wall but makes for a good dog (and kids) tether point.

Protection 

8 bolts to chains with steel carabiners.


Photos of Oreo Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Andy leading Oreo. At the sweet stuff in the middl...
Andy leading Oreo. At the sweet stuff in the middl...
Rock Climbing Photo: About two-thirds of the way up "Oreo" on...
About two-thirds of the way up "Oreo" on...
Rock Climbing Photo: Jen Hoffman enjoying a beautiful fall day by endul...
Jen Hoffman enjoying a beautiful fall day by endul...
Rock Climbing Photo: top roped to clean, enjoy the really cool view!
top roped to clean, enjoy the really cool view!

Comments on Oreo Add Comment
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By skelldify
Sep 19, 2015
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Hardest start of any route on this wall, also the most sustained.

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