Known to Willamette Valley locals for years, The Garden is one of the state's best bouldering areas. Tucked away in the forest near Sweet Home are a few collections of gigantic boulders with many great problems and potential for many more.
The area is generally separated into two areas: the main area and the Armageddon area. The main area is more developed although there is a ton of potential at both. There is some sport climbing here as well on a few 30-50ft. cliffs.
The rock in this area is generally quite good. There are lots of slopers and the problems are similar to those found up at Squamish. The cruxes of the problems tend to come towards the top due to the sloping rounded nature of many of the boulders.
Be sure to bring some sturdy brushes when climbing here-- there is a ton of moss on the boulders and due to seeing relatively little traffic they get overgrown quickly. Somewhere underneath all the moss there are undoubtedly plenty of yet to be discovered problems.
Getting There
Take Hwy. 20 East through Sweet Home. Drive through town and past the lake. Look for a sign to Quartzville and the fish hatchery and take the left turn. The parking for the main area is 4.3 miles from the turnoff. There are two prominent uphill dirt roads at about this distance; the first one goes to the Armageddon area and the second (better quality) road leads to the main area. Parking for the main area is 50m up this road at the big sweeping left turn. Take the trail down into the forest from here to reach the boulders.
One of the most popular boulders in the garden. Start low in the cave, left hand sloper and right hand on a small crimp SDS. Grunge your way up a hard v7/8 to a small heel hook rest. Then traverse left on a rail system to the left most side of the boulder, traverse around 20 ft to the left after completing the initial cave.One of the 5 hard lines left at sweethome....[more]
By corvegas From: the depths of oregon Apr 28, 2006
This area is on private land be respectful. Place bolts by hand, dont leave fixed ropes. As of 4/10 ago someone had left their rope fixed in the main area for a while. If your cleaning, at least clean your rope when you leave.
Also dont place bolts where they dont need to be, they will probably wind up getting chopped.