Seasonal raptor closure at Monument Area MORE INFO >>>
Rock climbing is not allowed 1/4 mile either side of the Monument due to a nesting pair of Golden Eagles. The birds are using Staender Ridge as a perch therefore it is also within the closure area. The trail which is on the backside of the Monument is open to through traffic, but hiking is not allowed around the cliff faces.
"and proceed up a thin crack through a black face"
That opener of pitch 2 (which Watts does rate 5.8) seemed (to me anyway) MUCH harder than anything else on that route. Can't get the fingers in the crack and the big block is a bit "shifty".
There was also a single bolt near top of dihedral - not sure why it's there as the crack offers good pro all the way up.