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West Ship River Face
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Blade, The 
Caffeine Free 
Phone Call From Satan 
Power 
Purple Headed Warrior 
Slit Your Wrist 
Solar 

Solar 

5.9

   

FA: Upper Pitch: Dean Fry and Russ Bunker 1973 F.F.A. Thomas and Lyford 1977
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.9 [details]
Length: 3 pitches, 165 feet
Views: 232 page views

Submitted By: Bryson Slothower on Mar 20, 2006


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You and this route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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BETA PHOTO: Solar


Description 

Fun climb that goes to the top of the West Ship.

Pitch 1:
Traverse in across the face to the anchor at the top of Phone Call From Satan
5.8 30 ft.

Pitch 2:
Step left from the anchor and proceed up a thin crack through a black face to a large ledge with a bolted anchor.
5.8 40 ft.

Pitch 3:
Follow the large dihedral up and left to the top of the formation and a bolted anchor with rap rings.
5.9 60 ft.

  • Pitches 2 and 3 can be combined with the first pitch of Phone Call From Satan into one long 175' lead (recommended)

Rap with a 60m rope to the anchor at the top of Caffine Free then one more rap to the ground.


Location 

Start in the gully on the East side of the formation or begin with Phone Call


Protection 

nuts and cams to 2"



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Kathryn near the top

Kathryn near the top


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By rpc
Mar 20, 2006

"and proceed up a thin crack through a black face"

That opener of pitch 2 (which Watts does rate 5.8) seemed (to me anyway) MUCH harder than anything else on that route. Can't get the fingers in the crack and the big block is a bit "shifty".

There was also a single bolt near top of dihedral - not sure why it's there as the crack offers good pro all the way up.

By mark d
Mar 20, 2006

i would second, that linking this route with phone call from satan, is the best way to do it.

rpc- that bolt is part of the caffeine free finish. i wonder myself why it was put there.