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Brogan Spire
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Cave Route 
Walking on Broken Glass 

Cave Route 

5.6 X

   

FA: Ted Davis and Jon Marshall 1963
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.6 [details]
Length: 3 pitches, 250 feet
Views: 362 page views

Submitted By: Bryson Slothower on Apr 5, 2006


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summit of Brogan


Description 

Smith's version of Stolen Chimney on Ancient Art.
Easy climbing to an airy summit makes for a worthy mini adventure.

Pitch 1: What used to be a 5.6 solo has now been bolted. Climb a short steep section to a slab above and end at a bolted anchor or continue to the tunnel.

Pitch 2: Continue up to a tunnel through the formation, climb through the tunnel and turn right. Follow a run out groove (couple of bolts) to the shoulder above and belay at a bolted anchor. 5.3-5.6

Pitch 3: The goods. Climb easy rock to the summit spire and enjoy the view. 5.4

Descent: Rap the route with two ropes


Location 

start in an alcove on the East side of the formation. there are three short and overhanging sport climbs just left of the start of this route.

Approach by hiking past Koala Rock to a chimney between Brogan Spire's south end and Mini Half Dome (5.0) then turn up hill and hike along the base of the formation and pass through a tunnel where a large block leans against the face. The alcove is just above there.


Protection 

small rack and draws



Add Photo Photos of Cave Route
The "cave" on the Cave Route.

The "cave" on the Cave Route.

Big Wave Dave in the cave on the Cave Route.

Big Wave Dave in the cave on the Cave Route.

Big Wave Dave following the final moves that finish at the summit of Brogan Spire. (The "cave" is the small dark area below Big Wave. The original 2nd pitch gully can be seen as the left-facing corner in the shade behind Big Wave.)

BETA PHOTO: Big Wave Dave following the final moves that finis...

Matt starting up the steep, but juggy, 5.6 first pitch of the Cave Route. This has 3 bolts. Deep, sandy jugs take you 30 feet up the start to the flat platform before the cave.

BETA PHOTO: Matt starting up the steep, but juggy, 5.6 first p...

Jon following up the end of the 5.4 - 5.5-ish loose & run-out, but fun, corner groove for pitch 2 of the Cave Route. Photo take from belay bolt anchors on the shoulder - a nice, airy belay ledge.

BETA PHOTO: Jon following up the end of the 5.4 - 5.5-ish loos...

Route-finding for Dummies. Myself, sometimes being route-finding challenged when I'm at a new rock, I threw this map together after I spent an afternoon here to help others. Granted, you miss out on some of the adventure if you take too close a look at this, but hey, here it is if you want a hand. Thought it would be helpful to point out the two options for the second pitch.

BETA PHOTO: Route-finding for Dummies. Myself, sometimes being...

Carrie following the bolted face pitch (#2) with Mark waiting his turn just outside of the western opening of the cave.

BETA PHOTO: Carrie following the bolted face pitch (#2) ...

Carrie rapping from the summit of Brogan Spire with Mark waiting at the optional 2nd pitch belay (anchor requires gear). Further below a climber is exiting the western opening of the cave while another group of climbers are near the first pitch anchors (2 bolts).

BETA PHOTO: Carrie rapping from the summit of Brogan Spire wit...


Add Comment Comments on Cave Route
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By bryans
Jun 19, 2006

This route is usually done in two pitches. from the cave, follow the obvious boltline to the summit in one pitch (rather than climbing up the manky and poorly protected corner to an intermediate belay). good date climb.

By corvegas
From: the depths of oregon
Feb 6, 2007

More like 5.6R definatly not X any more. Fully bolted to the final 5.4 summit moves.

By mebbing
From: Boulder, Colorado
Jun 17, 2008

I chose to lead "up the manky and poorly protected corner to an intermediate belay." The excellent perch up on that shoulder is indeed a fantastic place to spend some time, but I do believe if I climb this again, I will just follow the bolt line that is obivous from the cave... The "run-out groove" corner we climbed was fun, but was mostly loose, and other than 2 bolts, is pretty run-out. (the loose, sandy crack might take a #1 or #.75 cam, but I wouldn't want to fall on it!)

We did a double-rope rap from summit down east. After we all rapped, upon pulling the rope the knot between our two ropes got stuck on the little ledge just a foot or two in front of the big rap anchor up top. Took us a little while, but after pulling both rope ends far right the knot popped over the edge and we were able to pull the ropes down. I only mention because it turns out the same thing happened to the only other group that climbed it the same day as us.

By JohnK
From: Bend, Oregon
Jun 29, 2008

An alternate descent from the Brogan Spire summit with one rope:
Rap from the summit anchors towards the ridge where there are two anchor bolts at the top of the original 2nd pitch gully. This requires a bit of "walking" while "on rappel" east along the ridge to the anchors. Then rap from these anchors to the cave. Walk from the cave to the first pitch anchors (two bolts) and make the short rap back to your packs.