Climber on the summit of Brogan Spire above the Gr...
Description
Home to a wide variety of climbs from a 4 star 5.6 multipitch outing (Cave Route)to a brand new 14.b (The Optomist) as well as a decent selection of routes in between. Well worth the hike.
Getting There
Follow the trail past Koala Rock. and the Great Roof will be obvious with the spire above (see picture).
Smith's version of Stolen Chimney on Ancient Art.Easy climbing to an airy summit makes for a worthy mini adventure.Pitch 1: What used to be a 5.6 solo has now been bolted. Climb a short steep section to a slab above and end at a bolted anchor or continue to the tunnel.Pitch 2: Continue up to a tunnel through the formation, climb through the tunnel and turn right. Follow a run out groove (couple of bolts) to the shoulder above and belay at a bolte...[more]
anyone know about the route just right of Beth Rodden's new 5.14? It starts with huge holds in huecos and is sort of half moon shaped, left then back right. It's 11.b or so...?? Quite good.
i haven't done this route, but it's called, pouches 11c.
By corvegas From: the depths of oregon May 15, 2006
That's not really Beth Rodden's new 5.14. That climb is actually called The Great Roof, which was climbed on aid in 1966 with many fewer bolts. Ethics at Smith were lost and bolts were added, not by Beth. This brought down the adventure level of a route that could be enjoyed by more people, still into the art of placing protection. Those bolts should be chopped. It should be freed when the natural protection readily available on that climb is used.
By Peter Franzen Administrator From: Portland, OR May 20, 2006
Is there really enough natural protection for The Optimist to go with natural protection? From the video it looked like Beth was using a lot of pin scars and not much else in that crack.
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