Home - Destinations - People - Partners - Forum - Photos - What's New
 ADVANCED
The Four Horsemen
Show routes:
Select route...
Calamity Jam 
Crack Of Infinity 
Headless Horseman 
John Galt Line 
Pack Animal 
Pack Animal Direct 
Snuffy Smith 
Taiwan On 
Tuff It Out 

Headless Horseman 

5.10d

   

FA: Doug Phillips summer 1987, FFA: Greg Phillips summer 1987
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.10d [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 80 feet
Views: 254 page views

Submitted By: Peter Franzen on Jan 26, 2006


Add Photo  Add Comment 

You and this route  |  Other Opinions (6)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
 Printer Friendly View

Description 

A fun route with good position on the Third Horseman, which is adjacent to the tallest tower just to a climber's right.

Starting with a step off of a bolted belay onto the face it meanders up good rock with consistent and fun 5.10+ climbing. The bolts are spaced pretty well, which makes for some spicy moves once you start moving around the aretes.


Protection 

10 bolts to a bolted anchor.

One of the bolts on the belay stance at the bottom has mysteriously gone missing, so there's only one (very solid) bolt remaining. It might be possible to weasel in a cam or nut nearby to have a second piece, but the single bolt is probably fine.



Add Comment Comments on Headless Horseman
Show which comments
By Chris Miller
Administrator
Mar 9, 2006
rating: 5.10d

This enjoyable route feels taller than it is and features some enjoyable moves.

By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Jackson Hole, WY
Apr 18, 2007
rating: 5.10d

Great route. Technical, balancy, but not pumpy at all. The main crux is a short affair between the 4th and 5th bolt, but the movement on the arete above will get your attention. If you want to avoid hellish rope drag, use a long sling on the 3rd bolt. A 70m rope JUST makes the rappel.

By Joel Sprenger
From: Terrebonne, OR
Nov 28, 2007

If your belayer is on the ledge, the climber can lower all the way down with a 60m rope. Great climb, and for the height, not pumpy at all. If your not comfortable with spaced bolts, you'll love this one.