You can't miss this arete, just left of Darkness at Noon and Heinous Cling. One of the most fun and photogenic routes at Smith (and maybe the whole U.S.). Four bolts lead up the arete, with funky pinching, scumming, crimping and pocket pulling to get through the technical crux between the second and third bolts. The redpoint crux is the sports action throw over the roof at the top, though.
By Peter Franzen Administrator From: Portland, OR Jan 24, 2006 rating: 5.12c
I've fallen off of this route more times than I'd care to admit. I've pulled through the lower crux plenty of times, only to fall off of the dyno over the lip. It's a classic though! One of these days I'll get around to sending it...
By Aron Quiter Administrator From: Berkeley, CA Jul 19, 2006
When I was there, there were fixed draws on the route, and only after going up 15 feet to the first draw did I realize just how BAD the draws were. You may want to bring your own, as I'm not sure how many MORE big falls the bolt in the crux can withstand. Above the first crux pulling into the dyno move is a long ways above the bolt protecting the move.
I've pulled through the first crux, and then wanked above it. Then I've cheated through the crux and nailed the dyno, but I just can't seem to link them. ARRRGGGHHH!!! Maybe next time....
By Ryan Palo From: lake osweso, oregon Oct 30, 2006 rating: 5.12c
Rumor has it that the key dishes on the right face are drilled. I'm trying to find out if this is true.
The Dihedrals
RSS Feed
