The best route of its grade at Smith. With a dynamic crux coming near the top, a climber needs to be careful to avoid getting pumped on the technical crimps and pockets below. The route is perfectin pretty much every way. The falls are clean and the climbing exciting, and this route should be on every climber's tick-list.
Although the route extends to the top of the cliff, the upper section is rarely done. Both pitches together bump the grade to a very pumpy 5.12c with a couple of good runouts at the top. Almost all ascents of this route stop at the anchors halfway up.
It's located just to the right of Chain Reaction in the middle of the Dihedrals.
Protection
5 bolts with a 2 bolt anchor. An additional 3 bolts protect the less-traveled top portion of the route.
The crux on the upper portion of Heinous Cling is 5.12 involving sequential and bouldery moves. Hence, the 12c rating. I was able to exact a long rest by jamming the deep pocket after the crux and alternately hanging off each arm before charging to the top. The runout section past the final bolt is probably 10+ / 11-.
By Matt McMurray From: Castle Rock, CO Aug 3, 2006 rating: 5.12c
Quite a technical route. Pockets, crimps, and a dyno.... no wonder it's so popular. I found it to be a bit sketchy after the crux dyno until you make the clip.
The 12a version of this route is much harder for 'short' people. I'm not sure what the height cutoff is, but at 5'7" I can do the standard beta. However, my 5'5" GF had to do a crazy heel hook maneuver (with the left foot) to set up for the crux crimping section. Essentially it adds a new, even harder crux, just below the 'actual' crux.
The Dihedrals
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