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Wartley's Revenge 

Wartley's Revenge 

5.11a/b

   

FA: Rogers, Haack, Jern 72' free Thomas, Jones 78'
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.11- [details]
Length: 3 pitches, 250 feet, Grade II
Views: 660 page views

Submitted By: Bryson Slothower on Mar 7, 2006


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Description 

One of the greatest trad climbs at Smith and amoung the best 5.11's.
The upper two pitches are rarely done, only pitch 1 is described here.

Start out with some tricky stemming (1st crux)up an open corner with a thin crack then move right folowing the crack. Follow excellent holds up the crack through a hand traverse section into a changing corners section and finally finishing with a single face move (second crux) below the anchor.


Location 

Left of Heresy right of the Beard.


Protection 

nuts and cams to 3"



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By Bryson Slothower
May 22, 2006

Anyone done pitch 2, looks ok? Anchor???

By Eric Brown
From: portland, oregon
Nov 2, 2006
rating: 5.11a/b

Upper pitches are pretty loose.