Seasonal raptor closure at Monument Area MORE INFO >>>
Rock climbing is not allowed 1/4 mile either side of the Monument due to a nesting pair of Golden Eagles. The birds are using Staender Ridge as a perch therefore it is also within the closure area. The trail which is on the backside of the Monument is open to through traffic, but hiking is not allowed around the cliff faces.
This classic route shares the first bolt with Dreamin' before traversing left and merging with Rude Boys just before the sparsely protected slab.
The technical crux comes immediately after the second bolt and a powerful lockoff gains the slab above the fourth bolt. Sustained face climbing on welded tuff past two more bolts and a fixed stopper leads to the anchor.
The 12b rating seemed somewhat soft relative to other 12b's I have climbed at Smith.
I was really perplexed when I first looked at this route. The route traverses between the first and second bolt but all of the chalk is well above the second bolt. Don't let this keep you from doing the route. The traverse moves are pretty easy and you'll probably end up clipping the second draw at left ankle height. Bolt placement seems a little odd, but it is nothing to fret about.
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