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New Testament 

5.10a

   

FA: Dean Fry, Larry Kemp, Feb. 1973
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.9+ [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 80 feet
Views: 349 page views

Submitted By: David Tvedt on May 1, 2006


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You and this route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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Crack on the left is New Testament, face to the ri...


Description 

This right leaning crack has some awkward moves as it angles it's way up to the crux at the top finishing slot. Probably not a good route for someone just getting into leading 10a trad. Back in the 90's, a shaky climber fell at the crux, and ripped out enough of his gear to ground. Amazingly, he lived through it.


Location 

Just left of Barbecue The Pope and just right of the arete.


Protection 

Gear to 3". Rap anchors. Note: Rock quality is fine but gear may not hold as well due to a lot of surface irregularities inside the crack.



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Gotta Love Crack! Even if its awkward and sharp :)

Gotta Love Crack! Even if its awkward and sharp :)


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By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Jackson Hole, WY
May 20, 2007
rating: 5.9+

Great route. The crack is better suited to hexes than cams... so if you have some, bring 'em.

By Skeates
Sep 20, 2007
rating: 5.10a

I agree with the hexes over cams. The crack looks smaller than it is. Don't forget the medium hexes and take some time to put in a couple of bomber nuts before you pull up into the crux at the top (don't be tempted to use a micro-nut in the finger crack at the top - the last two people who did that and fell broke their leg and ankle respectively on a small ledge below the crux when there piece blew). A fun crack though, definitely worth doing!