Seasonal raptor closure at Monument Area MORE INFO >>>
Rock climbing is not allowed 1/4 mile either side of the Monument due to a nesting pair of Golden Eagles. The birds are using Staender Ridge as a perch therefore it is also within the closure area. The trail which is on the backside of the Monument is open to through traffic, but hiking is not allowed around the cliff faces.
Approach the first bolt through some easy moves between good holds. Immediately after the first bolt the technical crux (V5/6) begins with some powerful reaches between small edges. Shake out at the second bolt if you wish, then with your photographer strategically placed, execute the photogenic "rose move." The dyanmic redpoint crux (V4) awaits you at a bulge just after the third bolt. Several sequences will work through this section off the hang, but take care to find the best sequence, as the moves feel significantly harder when linking from the ground.
Once you reach the fourth bolt the hard climbing is over. Your hands are good but the lack of low feet makes it hard to rest here. The next few moves moving right to the mini dihedral are not trivial. The rest of the climb is more of a mental challenge than anything else. The finishing 5.11 slab is runout and features interesting moves between slopers, pinches and pockets. This slab is much more complex and challenging than the adjacent Dreamin' slab.
Location
This route is just left of Dreamin' on the Prophet wall.
Protection
Quickdraws and maybe a few shoulder-length slings or double-draws to manage the rope drag. There is a horizontal pod that takes gear between the last bolt & the anchor. A nut has been fixed in this pod for many years, but you might want to have some gear with you in case its missing.
By Jay Knower Administrator From: Plymouth, NH May 12, 2006
I spent some time climbing on, and falling off of this route. The thin technical crux of the route comes at the first bolt (V5 or 6). After that, better holds traverse right to the second crux, passing the third bolt (V4) with some lunges.
On my first attempt at the route, I did all the moves on the lower section and said to my belayer: "Yeah, I'll just run up the final slab." I proceded to get completely destroyed. I found myself fifteen feet run out, staring at the next bolt with no way to clip it. Then it started raining. After a desperation lunge to a sloper, my feet peeled and I was off...I took a 25 footer and ended up at the first bolt. The moral: do not underestimate the slab.
Approach the first bolt through some easy moves between good holds. Immediately after the first bolt the technical crux (V5/6) begins with some powerful reaches between small edges. Shake out at the second bolt if you wish, then with your photographer strategically placed, execute the photogenic "rose move." The dyanmic redpoint crux (V4) awaits you at a bulge just after the third bolt. Several sequences will work through this section off the hang, but take care to find the best sequence, as the moves feel significantly harder when linking from the ground.
Once you reach the fourth bolt the hard climbing is over. Your hands are good but the lack of low feet makes it hard to rest here. The next few moves moving right to the mini dihedral are not trivial. The rest of the climb is more of a mental challenge than anything else. The finishing 5.11 slab is runout and features interesting moves between slopers, pinches and pockets. This slab is much more complex and challenging than the adjacent Dreamin' slab.
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