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The Christian Brothers
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Rude Boys 

5.13c

   

FA: FA - Alan Watts 1985, FFA Jean Baptiste Tribout 10/86
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.13c [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 90 feet
Season: a
Views: 778 page views

Submitted By: Karsten on Mar 22, 2006


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Ian Caldwell dances up Rude Boys.


Description 

The crux comes low but the pumpy .11 slab can still get ya. If you have better beta, post it, and I'll add it to this description.


Location 

This route is just left of Dreamin' on the Prophet wall.


Protection 

Quickdraws and a few TCUs for up top

Bolted Anchors



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Brian prepping for the upper section.

Brian prepping for the upper section.


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By Jay Knower
Administrator
May 12, 2006

I spent some time climbing on, and falling off of this route. The thin technical crux of the route comes at the first bolt (V5 or 6). After that, better holds traverse right to the second crux, passing the third bolt (V4) with some lunges.

On my first attempt at the route, I did all the moves on the lower section and said to my belayer: "Yeah, I'll just run up the final slab." I proceded to get completely destroyed. I found myself fifteen feet run out, staring at the next bolt with no way to clip it. Then it started raining. After a desperation lunge to a sloper, my feet peeled and I was off...I took a 25 footer and ended up at the first bolt. The moral: do not underestimate the slab.

By Philip Scoles
From: Salem, Oregon
Nov 14, 2006

Ok, thanks much. I got the beta from Ian and I think I will be able to do it before this up-coming summer.