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The Christian Brothers
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Wartley's Revenge 

Revelations 

5.9

   

FA: 
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.9- [details]
Length: 1 pitch
Views: 440 page views

Submitted By: ScottH on Mar 8, 2006


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Revelations


Description 

Revelations was the first fully bolted sport route at Smith, which makes it historic. Unfortunately age isn't everything, and this climb is like old creaky Uncle Sid. He shows up at the family reunions, he's a nice guy, you try to like him...but he's just a little bit too weird in the end.

Revelations climbs the bolted arete left of Barbecue the Pope. Pinch and tiptoe your way up the pebbley face, using the arete as you go. I found this climb to be a little insecure with some odd sequences between bolts-- and there's a lot of between bolts on this one. There's probably no more run out than on most other Smith routes, but these pebbley slabs do something to my head.


Protection 

Bolts. It might not be a bad idea to place a nut on your way to the first one, which is high.



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By sho
From: AZ
Sep 2, 2007

Regarding the nut placement before the first bolt: I found the rock on the whole climb seemed pretty hollow. You could probably wiggle something small in, but I wouldn't count on it holding.