Dreamin' 

FA:  Brooke Sandahl, Feb. '88 Type:  Sport Consensus:  5.12a [details] Length:  1 pitch, 90 feet Views: 1,597 page views Submitted By: Vernon Stiefel on Jan 30, 2006 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Seasonal raptor closure at Monument Area MORE INFO >>> Rock climbing is not allowed 1/4 mile either side of the Monument due to a nesting pair of Golden Eagles. The birds are using Staender Ridge as a perch therefore it is also within the closure area. The trail which is on the backside of the Monument is open to through traffic, but hiking is not allowed around the cliff faces. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Sauntering up the steep slab on impeccable tuff be...

Description 

This classic sport climb on the east face of the Prophet Wall ascends welded tuff on a steep face, slab, and over two roofs. The hardest move, before the initial roof, felt like 11d although two other 11 cruxes are encountered making the overall rating 12a. As A. Watts suggests, a 2' runner is helpful at the penultimate bolt under the final roof to prevent rope drag. Brilliant Climb!!

Protection 

Quickdraws are all you need for pro. A fixed rappel anchor is at the top.

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3rd bolt on the slab.	Pullin the roof, there's a mondo jug up there, jus...	Nearing the end of the brilliant slab.
Surmounting the low roof on Dreamin'.	Starting the excellent slab section.