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Dreamin' 

5.12a

   

FA: Brooke Sandahl, Feb. '88
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.12a [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 90 feet
Views: 1,054 page views

Submitted By: Vernon Stiefel on Jan 30, 2006


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You and this route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Sauntering up the steep slab on impeccable tuff be...


Description 

This classic sport climb on the east face of the Prophet Wall ascends welded tuff on a steep face, slab, and over two roofs. The hardest move, before the initial roof, felt like 11d although two other 11 cruxes are encountered making the overall rating 12a. As A. Watts suggests, a 2' runner is helpful at the penultimate bolt under the final roof to prevent rope drag. Brilliant Climb!!


Protection 

Quickdraws are all you need for pro. A fixed rappel anchor is at the top.



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3rd bolt on the slab.

3rd bolt on the slab.

Pullin the roof, there's a mondo jug up there, just keep feeling for it...or use a horrific crimp and whip off like I did...

Pullin the roof, there's a mondo jug up there, jus...


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By Karsten
From: Reno, NV
Feb 2, 2006

Some sporty runnouts on this one send some running but the falls are all clean.

By Ryan Palo
From: lake osweso, oregon
Nov 20, 2006

PG13 Perhaps. If this route wasn't so dam scary to us low 12 climbers, it would see heaps of traffic. Either way, great movement on excellent rock, and superior position.