Seasonal raptor closure at Monument Area MORE INFO >>>
Rock climbing is not allowed 1/4 mile either side of the Monument due to a nesting pair of Golden Eagles. The birds are using Staender Ridge as a perch therefore it is also within the closure area. The trail which is on the backside of the Monument is open to through traffic, but hiking is not allowed around the cliff faces.
Raluca Negru chills out at 2nd pitch anchors on Sp...
Description
Spiderman is one of the great moderate trad climbs at Smith. This crack on the tuft is surprisingly solid and has some surprisingly exciting moves for such an moderately graded climb.
Pitch 1: 5.6 Begin on the right side of a large ramp. climb up a right angling crack to a bolted anchor on the left. . . or continue on and link up pitch 2
Pitch 2: 5.7 Continue up the hand crack in the dihedral above. Belay at bolt anchors on the face.
Pitch 3: 5.7 From the belay move left into a seam that quickly opens into a fingercrack. Take this crack to the improbable roof. Pull the roof and continue up easy climbing to a chain anchor on top. Watch rope drag!
Alternate Pitch 3: This easier but less popular variation lacks the luster of the regular finish. From the belay you can take the crack heading up and left avoiding the roof.
Descent: You can rappel the route with two ropes but pulling the ropes can be nasty.
A walk off descent to climber's right requires a bit of scrambling but is easier.
Protection
Stand double cam rack to 3.5 inches w/ standard nuts selection
Rapping from the top anchors to the first set will get your rope stuck, at least we did, our rope is still up there. It's best to do the walkoff that includes small raps and downclimbing.
This is generally thought of as a two pitch route (skip the first anchors), it can also be done as one pitch with a 70 meter rope if you are comfortable at the grade. Last anchors are not set up for rappel so plan on walking off which requires some third class down climbing.
By Chris Duca Administrator From: Hinesburg, Vermont Sep 15, 2008 rating: 5.7
Phenomenal route in the grade...best done as 2 pitches. And I'm not sure what all the talk about the top anchors not being set up for rappelling is all about--We rapped the route in two rappels this past Saturday easily with one 60m rope. No snags, no ropes in other parties faces...nothing.
Just did it on sunday. All three of us rapped it on double 60 meter ropes tied together. Rope was retrieved, just gotta make sure it will pull. Might have to pull hard but it'll come.
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