Raluca Negru chills out at 2nd pitch anchors on Sp...
Description
Spiderman is one of the great moderate trad climbs at Smith. This crack on the tuft is surprisingly solid and has some surprisingly exciting moves for such an moderately graded climb.
Pitch 1: 5.6 Begin on the right side of a large ramp. climb up a right angling crack to a bolted anchor on the left. . . or continue on and link up pitch 2
Pitch 2: 5.7 Continue up the hand crack in the dihedral above. Belay at bolt anchors on the face.
Pitch 3: 5.7 From the belay move left into a seam that quickly opens into a fingercrack. Take this crack to the improbable roof. Pull the roof and continue up easy climbing to a chain anchor on top. Watch rope drag!
Alternate Pitch 3: This easier but less popular variation lacks the luster of the regular finish. From the belay you can take the crack heading up and left avoiding the roof.
Descent: You can rappel the route with two ropes but pulling the ropes can be nasty.
A walk off descent to climber's right requires a bit of scrambling but is easier.
Protection
Stand double cam rack to 3.5 inches w/ standard nuts selection
There are currently Pigeons nesting just above the second set of anchors so watch out for their angry mother/disturbing their nest, the babies sounded pretty young.
Rapping from the top anchors to the first set will get your rope stuck, at least we did, our rope is still up there. It's best to do the walkoff that includes small raps and downclimbing.
This is generally thought of as a two pitch route (skip the first anchors), it can also be done as one pitch with a 70 meter rope if you are comfortable at the grade. Last anchors are not set up for rappel so plan on walking off which requires some third class down climbing.
Spiderman Buttress
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