First pitch is classic, many stop at first set of anchors. The upper pitch is great fun though a little loose.
P1 - 5.8 - Hand traverse left to a splitter hand crack. Follow crack up to bolted belay, belay from bolts if planning on just doing first pitch. Or continue up another 60 ft to a good belay ledge blow the P2 crux. Belay from mid sized cams.
P2 - 5.8 - Crank the awkward 5.8 bulge then head striaght up untill your rope runs out. Belay mid sized cams.
Climb the first pitch, then rap. The rest of the route is chossy and not fun at all. We were pulling delicately around dinner plate sized rocks for much of it, so we nicknamed it "mutually assured destruction." First pitch is great though.
was it really that bad? I admit to doing it a couple years back but don't reacall anything looser than say Moscow next door on it?? An OK upper pitch but nothing like the opening crack of course.
Yep, it was that bad: bad enough, anyway, to send me traversing right in hopes of bailing onto Moscow. There is a cool eagle's nest in the cave to the west, though. P.S. Ben Kenobi didn't learn his lesson, though, and neither did I; we've both been spending a lot of time in the desert lately... And ironically, we've both been spending a lot time birding.
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