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Moscow 

5.6

   

FA: Pat Callis & Mickey Schurr 1965
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.6 [details]
Length: 2 pitches, 300 feet
Views: 699 page views

Submitted By: corvegas on Feb 5, 2007


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BETA PHOTO: looking up at MOSCOW pitch one.


Description 

2 or 3 pitches of moderate cracks up the Red Wall. Good intro to multi pitch trad.

P1 - 5.6 - Begins in a blocky corner, on the far right side of the Red Wall. After 25 ft head striaght up into open book (5.7) or cut left and keep going up untill a nice belay ledge is reached. Belay from medium sized gear.

P2 - 5.6 - Head straight up from belay ledge and take it all the way to the top from here or stop on one of two smaller ledges to belay. At the top theres a 20ft sec of 4 inches.

4th class scramble to the top.


Location 

Far right side of Red Wall.


Protection 

Small trad rack to 4". Remember its all gear belays.



Photos of Moscow Slideshow Add Photo
Sarah relaxing at our belay at the top of pitch one on Moscow, 5.6, Smith Rock. <br />Fun, shady climb on mostly good rock. Mostly easy to protect. We did the climb as 3 pitches as I needed to use some gear for the belay anchors.

Sarah relaxing at our belay at the top of pitch on...

Moscow (5.6) on the Red Wall as seen from across the way by Staender Ridge. Yellow lines are the 3 pitches we climbed, and the green line is the 4th class scramble and then the regular trail back to the base.

Moscow (5.6) on the Red Wall as seen from across t...


Comments on Moscow Add Comment
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By mebbing
From: Boulder, Colorado
Jun 17, 2008

Fun climb. Fun, steep 5.6. Nice shady escape in the late afternoon.

quick note: Ron Horton's 2006 Weekend Rock Oregon guide book notes chain anchors at the top of each pitch. Not so much. (at least we never saw them - and no other book, or this web page, say anything about chain anchors) I thought it was a lot of fun to top out after 3 pitches, but would say bring your trail shoes or sandals, as it's quite the little hike down on the trail back to the base.

Also, at the top of the 3rd pitch, the wide crack up steep slab (25 feet?) takes mostly just #4 Camalots (#3 was a little to small) - if you aren't especially comfortable on 5.6 wide crack, you may want to make sure you have at least one or two #4's to protect it.