Moscow 5.6
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| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches, 300 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.6 [details] |
| FA: | Pat Callis & Mickey Schurr 1965 |
| Submitted By: | corvegas on Feb 5, 2007 |
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BETA PHOTO: looking up at MOSCOW pitch one.
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Description 2 or 3 pitches of moderate cracks up the Red Wall. Good intro to multi pitch trad. P1 - 5.6 - Begins in a blocky corner, on the far right side of the Red Wall. After 25 ft head striaght up into open book (5.7) or cut left and keep going up untill a nice belay ledge is reached. Belay from medium sized gear. P2 - 5.6 - Head straight up from belay ledge and take it all the way to the top from here or stop on one of two smaller ledges to belay. At the top theres a 20ft sec of 4 inches. 4th class scramble to the top.
Location Far right side of Red Wall.
Protection Small trad rack to 4". Remember its all gear belays.
Sarah relaxing at our belay at the top of pitch on...
| Moscow (5.6) on the Red Wall as seen from across t...
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By mebbing From: Bend, Oregon Jun 17, 2008
| Fun climb. Fun, steep 5.6. Nice shady escape in the late afternoon. quick note: Ron Horton's 2006 Weekend Rock Oregon guide book notes chain anchors at the top of each pitch. Not so much. (at least we never saw them - and no other book, or this web page, say anything about chain anchors) I thought it was a lot of fun to top out after 3 pitches, but would say bring your trail shoes or sandals, as it's quite the little hike down on the trail back to the base. Also, at the top of the 3rd pitch, the wide crack up steep slab (25 feet?) takes mostly just #4 Camalots (#3 was a little to small) - if you aren't especially comfortable on 5.6 wide crack, you may want to make sure you have at least one or two #4's to protect it. |
By Plaidman From: Portland, Oregon May 7, 2010
| I would concur with the above comment. There are no chain anchors on the route. I brought a #4 Camalot and used it in the wide crack on the 2nd pitch. Two would be over kill I think. I also found a red tricam placement on the right high on the wall above the wide crack just before the finish at the top pitch 2. Tricams are the bomb at Smith in some of the pockets. Awesome route. Just finished it with my new partner. We topped out just as the light dimmmed into nothingness. The walk off was fairly easy to find. It wanders to the left. As it starts to dip down look for a cairn on a ledge to show the way up to the correct trail. |
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