Dances with Clams 

FA:  Tom Heins, Pete Keane, 1991 Type:  Sport Consensus:  5.10a/b [details] Length:  1 pitch, 65 feet Views: 288 page views Submitted By: David Tvedt on May 3, 2006 Add Photo  Add Comment

You and this route  |  Other Opinions (13) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Seasonal raptor closure at Monument Area MORE INFO >>> Rock climbing is not allowed 1/4 mile either side of the Monument due to a nesting pair of Golden Eagles. The birds are using Staender Ridge as a perch therefore it is also within the closure area. The trail which is on the backside of the Monument is open to through traffic, but hiking is not allowed around the cliff faces. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

Given 10a in the 92 Watt's guide, this route has continued to lose some holds since then, and is a bit harder now. Overall, the rock on the route now feels pretty solid. Wide edge moves lead to a tricky overhung finish on pockets and edges just before the anchors.

Location 

On a short pillar just off the Misery Ridge/Red Wall trail, below Bill's Flake. The route on the right side of the pillar.

Protection 

Bolts (aprox. 4). Rap anchors.