Seasonal raptor closure at Monument Area MORE INFO >>>
Rock climbing is not allowed 1/4 mile either side of the Monument due to a nesting pair of Golden Eagles. The birds are using Staender Ridge as a perch therefore it is also within the closure area. The trail which is on the backside of the Monument is open to through traffic, but hiking is not allowed around the cliff faces.
Prairie Falcons are nesting high on Picnic Lunch Wall. The bottom 50 meters are open to climbing. The second pitch of all the routes are closed, as well as any climbing above 50 meters. Opening date to be determined.
Although this route garners a single star in the Watts guidebook, I found the climbing to be sustained and mentally scintillating on good to excellent rock. The crux entails unorthodox moves over a small roof half way to the top but there are many difficult sections beginning off the ground. Reaching the anchors requires climbing over a second small roof (10+) about 10' above the last bolt. A fall would be undesirable at this point.
Location
The route begins on the far left side of the Picnic Lunch Wall.
Protection
Quick draws for 10 bolts to rappel anchors. A stopper placement may be possible at the final roof. Stick clipping the first bolt is recommended.
this route was put up on lead by kurt smith and thom thompson(sp?). on the same trip they put up, sole survivor, ground up as well. both 5.11 face climbs!
i have to agree that a fall at the final roof would be bad news. you are not only 10 feet above, but also 7-10 feet to the left of, the last bolt. i tried a few times in vain to place stoppers and TCUs at the roof (fighting the pump), but nothing seemed any better than psych pro. i left a bail biner (which stayed there for over a year) so i never found out how hard the mantle over the roof is. maybe an offset would have fit???
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