Seasonal raptor closure at Monument Area MORE INFO >>>
Rock climbing is not allowed 1/4 mile either side of the Monument due to a nesting pair of Golden Eagles. The birds are using Staender Ridge as a perch therefore it is also within the closure area. The trail which is on the backside of the Monument is open to through traffic, but hiking is not allowed around the cliff faces.
Prairie Falcons are nesting high on Picnic Lunch Wall. The bottom 50 meters are open to climbing. The second pitch of all the routes are closed, as well as any climbing above 50 meters. Opening date to be determined.
This fine route just keeps getting better as you go.
Pitch 1: Climb through huge huecos to a bolt just left of the 1st bolt on Honey Pot. Follow the thin slabby face above on little knobs. to an anchor. 5.10c 100'
Pitch 2: Move up and right through some choss to a clean face above. Follow bolts to a cruxy move just below a ledge with an anchor. 5.10 55'
Pitch 3: Move right on beautiful red stone and follow the edge with a lot of air below your feet until you hit the arete and go straight following bolts to an anchor. The anchor is just above a huge partially detached flake/block that should be negotiated with care. 5.10b 60' (can easily be combined with pitch 2)