Seasonal raptor closure at Monument Area MORE INFO >>>
Rock climbing is not allowed 1/4 mile either side of the Monument due to a nesting pair of Golden Eagles. The birds are using Staender Ridge as a perch therefore it is also within the closure area. The trail which is on the backside of the Monument is open to through traffic, but hiking is not allowed around the cliff faces.
This vicious little route hits you with a low crux but stays on you till the anchor. The rock is sharp but the moves excellent. It may be a bit easier for tall people.
By C Miller Administrator Mar 7, 2006 rating: 5.11b
A good climb that was originally known as "JBGHSL" when done as a TR. The name stems back to the friction between the old Tradionalists and the "new wave" Tricksters; if you don't know what the acronym stands for ask around and I'm sure you'll find out.
I am 5'6" tall and climb 5.11 regularly and I couldn't do the move so I would agree that it might be easier if you are tall. It could be a long humbling week if height is not a valid excuse.
I'm 5'4" or so and just got back on the route today. Though I didn't redpoint it, the moves seemed easier than before, and not quite so "reachy". Thought I'd post this in case any other shorties out there were getting nervous!
By Ian G. From: PDX, OR Apr 25, 2009 rating: 5.11b/c
I thought this route was very difficult for .11b (compared to say vomit launch). Got shut down by the lower crux. The climbing on the upper part of the route is great and on some unique stone.
Hardest 11 I've ever been on. In terms of other 11b climbs, it's way harder than Cool Ranch Flavor (on Morning Glory), and is harder than Embryonic (rated 11d, on Student Wall). Maybe I am too short (I'm 5'10") or was just stupid, but the lower crux felt solid 11d or harder to me.
By Monomaniac Administrator From: Morrison, CO Jul 27, 2009
Welcome to Smith! Its not you, this just happens to be one of the classic Smith sandbags. Not a good choice for a warm day.
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