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Morning Glory Wall
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5.12b/c

   

FA: Brooke Sandahl 3/87
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.12c [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 55 feet
Views: 224 page views

Submitted By: Peter Franzen on Oct 22, 2006


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Description 

A very insecure start with a pretty desperate stab to a good pocket gets things going on this aesthetic arete. Two more crux sections await, and there's a spicy runout before the last bolt once the real business is behind you. Be sure to save some gas for the last move though.

I found the movement to be pretty awkward and it felt very hard for the grade. I had a much easier time with the cruxes on The Quickening (.12d), but if delicate aretes are your thing then this is a good route.

Start on the boulder by stick clipping the first bolt (!), then step off onto the good rail and a few good footholds.


Location 

Far right corner of the Churning Buttress on the Morning Glory Wall. Belay from below the boulder.


Protection 

A stick clip is absolutely required. Nobody in their right mind would try to climb through the lower crux before the first bolt without it pre-clipped.