9 gallon is the middle route. Climbers also on Mag...
Description
Nine Gallon Buckets ascends an obvious line of huecos between Cool Ranch Flavor and Overboard. This climb is long and pumpy, and enjoyable the whole way up. There are three sets of anchors on this climb. If you stop at the first, it is 5.9. The second anchor comes after a section of 5.10c, and the third after an additional section of 5.9. You can lower off the highest anchor with a 60 M line.
P1. Begin by heading up steep ground to the first bolt (some will want a stick clip-- the moves are not totally trivial), then follow the massive huecos up and left to the first set of chains (5.9).
P2. Continue heading up and left as the pockets get smaller and sparser. The crux arises soon after leaving the first pitch anchor and involves some tricky sidepulls. Remember to look left if you feel like you are running out of positive features on this pitch! After passing an intermediate anchor the difficulty of the climbing eases, but the pump remains to the final anchor (10c).
Agree with all of the above statements. If you can climb to the first bolt you might as well take it to the third anchor because even if you fall up high you will not hit the ground
Morning Glory Wall
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