Seasonal raptor closure at Monument Area MORE INFO >>>
Rock climbing is not allowed 1/4 mile either side of the Monument due to a nesting pair of Golden Eagles. The birds are using Staender Ridge as a perch therefore it is also within the closure area. The trail which is on the backside of the Monument is open to through traffic, but hiking is not allowed around the cliff faces.
9 gallon is the middle route. Climbers also on Mag...
Description
Nine Gallon Buckets ascends an obvious line of huecos between Cool Ranch Flavor and Overboard. This climb is long and pumpy, and enjoyable the whole way up. There are three sets of anchors on this climb. If you stop at the first, it is 5.9. The second anchor comes after a section of 5.10c, and the third after an additional section of 5.9. You can lower off the highest anchor with a 60 M line.
P1. Begin by heading up steep ground to the first bolt (some will want a stick clip-- the moves are not totally trivial), then follow the massive huecos up and left to the first set of chains (5.9).
P2. Continue heading up and left as the pockets get smaller and sparser. The crux arises soon after leaving the first pitch anchor and involves some tricky sidepulls. Remember to look left if you feel like you are running out of positive features on this pitch! After passing an intermediate anchor the difficulty of the climbing eases, but the pump remains to the final anchor (10c).
Agree with all of the above statements. If you can climb to the first bolt you might as well take it to the third anchor because even if you fall up high you will not hit the ground
By Peter Franzen Administrator From: Portland, OR Sep 22, 2008
I think a comment needs to be made regarding the opening sequence of this route. Yesterday I was once again a witness to a sketchy and scary fall that occurred before the first bolt had been clipped.
The first 15 feet of this climb are fairly serious and poorly protected. Just because you can climb 5.9 does not mean that you will be comfortable getting to the first bolt. A stick-clip is highly recommended if you aren't totally solid and confident. This is bolted like an old-school climb, and if you've climbed 5.9s elsewhere you're probably going to be in for a surprise.
Many people will find this aggravating and frustrating, but do yourself (and your ankles) a favor by taking some precaution here.
Seems like Peters comment could be said about almost every route I got on at Smith. An alternative to the stick clip is wait until you are a solid 5.10+ climber then get on it. I watched a kid fall above the first or second bolt and miss the ground by two feet. Not sure why he came so close but it is a dangerous game and you need to be careful.
I also agree with Peter. Stick clip the first bolt as the hardest bit is getting off the ground and you really don't want to blow the opening moves. And, if you can climb 5.10 you MUST do the upper section. After grunting through the sidepull/undercling crux the climbing eases considerably, finishing on some of the coolest honeycomb pockets you will ever have the pleasure of sinking your meathooks into.
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