Pitch 1: The first pitch has many variations from 5.7 to 5.11. These lines share the first pitch anchor: Zebra Direct(5.11a), Zebra Seam (5.11d), and Gumby (5.10b) Take any of these lines to the first anchor.
Pitch 2: (10.b) Move straight up into the right-facing dihedral. This pitch is traditionally thought of as the crux of the climb for both its technical moves off the belay and endurance required on this long pitch. Belay at a ledge on the left at a bolted anchor.
Pitch 3: (5.9) Continue up the corner for a few feet and make an exposed traverse out onto the face to the right.(pro may be placed in a few pods here but watch rope drag on this pitch) Keep moving up and right until you reach a roof. Be careful on this pitch so as not to rain rocks down on the popular areas below.
Pitch 4: (5.9) Climb this fantasticly steep and juggy flake to the summit. A truly spectacular pitch with fun moves and superb position.
This climb will get you on top of the main formation at smith. Descend one of the gullies to the right (east) or take a more scenic descent to the NW around monkey face.
By Andy Laakmann Site Landlord From: Jackson Hole, WY Oct 22, 2006 rating: 5.10b
Great line. Great climb. The 2nd pitch corner was stellar fingers to awkward, but enjoyable hands. The traverse on the 3rd pitch was no big deal, and there is gear where you need it on the dirty 5.6 slab above. The final pitch up the headwall flake is not-to-be-missed. Crazy fun climbing with jaw dropping exposure.
Highly recommend. Why this line stands empty as the sport routes below are swarming with people is beyond me.....
Easy descent down the Cocaine Gully (first gully on climbers right)
"Why this line stands empty as the sport routes below are swarming with people is beyond me" Because you either climbed on a weekday or got lucky :) Spring/fall weekends see a crowd on this one. Looks like you sampled some of Smith's best (think my wife and I ran into you guys in the L. Gorge).
By Philip Scoles From: Salem, Oregon Apr 16, 2007 rating: 5.10b
Please dont be up-grading routes, Zebra Seam is 5.11d. Thanks
Morning Glory Wall
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