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Morning Glory Wall
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Gumby 

5.10b

   

FA: Alan Watts & Brooke Sandahl 3/87
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.10b [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 40 feet
Views: 506 page views

Submitted By: Peter Franzen on Jan 24, 2006


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Description 

What's this? Another fun moderate face climb on the Morning Glory wall? Say it ain't so!

This route starts about 30 feet to the left of the dihedral near Zebra Direct and Light on the Path. Good face climbing on the bottom leads to juggy huecos at the top.


Protection 

4 bolts and a bolted anchor



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By ScottH
Jan 31, 2006
rating: 5.10b

There is an excellent variation to this climb that is the best single pitch climb I have done on the Morning Glory wall (the variation may have a name and should be listed as a different route?). After reaching the giant huecos, find a good stance and rest your arms. Instead of following the huecos up and right to end at the P1 Zebra-Zion anchors (5.easy), continue straight up on pocketed and crimpy face climbing to a set of bolted anchors. This is pumpy and delicate climbing that is very similar in character to the first part of Gumby. Done this way I would call the route 10b/c.