Seasonal raptor closure at Monument Area MORE INFO >>>
Rock climbing is not allowed 1/4 mile either side of the Monument due to a nesting pair of Golden Eagles. The birds are using Staender Ridge as a perch therefore it is also within the closure area. The trail which is on the backside of the Monument is open to through traffic, but hiking is not allowed around the cliff faces.
What's this? Another fun moderate face climb on the Morning Glory wall? Say it ain't so!
This route starts about 30 feet to the left of the dihedral near Zebra Direct and Light on the Path. Good face climbing on the bottom leads to juggy huecos at the top.
There is an excellent variation to this climb that is the best single pitch climb I have done on the Morning Glory wall (the variation may have a name and should be listed as a different route?). After reaching the giant huecos, find a good stance and rest your arms. Instead of following the huecos up and right to end at the P1 Zebra-Zion anchors (5.easy), continue straight up on pocketed and crimpy face climbing to a set of bolted anchors. This is pumpy and delicate climbing that is very similar in character to the first part of Gumby. Done this way I would call the route 10b/c.
Perhaps the route has had some equipment changes in the two years since the description was posted? There were more like 7 bolts on this line, with the anchors well near 75 feet above the ground (not 40). The top three bolts linked thin, crimpy, slabby, beautifully delicate climbing with the juggy-monkey heuco-pulling below. Fun!!
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