Seasonal raptor closure at Monument Area MORE INFO >>>
Rock climbing is not allowed 1/4 mile either side of the Monument due to a nesting pair of Golden Eagles. The birds are using Staender Ridge as a perch therefore it is also within the closure area. The trail which is on the backside of the Monument is open to through traffic, but hiking is not allowed around the cliff faces.
Carmen clipping the anchor on Magic Light with Ove...
Description
Shares the first couple of bolts with Overboard. Another great warmup if you only climb the lower 5.11b pitch as most people do. A thin and pumpy crux finishes off this fine pitch
Protection
9 bolts to a bolted anchor, or keep going through 7 more to the top of the second pitch
I would say the first pitch crux comes lower down with the traverse and thin crimpy sequence afterwards. The pump gets alot of people at the top but the moves are definately not thin there.
I have maybe seen one ascent of the second pitch. The first pitch is one of the best of the grade at Smith though.
By Monomaniac Administrator From: Morrison, CO Nov 27, 2006 rating: 5.12b
If you've ever wondered why Watts gives this route only 2 stars, try the extension. Apparently 4 stars plus zero stars divided by 2, equals 2 stars. A new anchor has been added on the extension that actually shortens the original 12b pitch by 2 bolts. Fear not, all the original hardware is still in place; its still entirely possible to climb the original sketchfest, but its no longer mandatory. The new anchor allows for TR-ing with a 70m rope, and is located at the end of the 'good' climbing, just below the upper crux. If you climb to the new anchor the route is a stiff 12a. To get full 12b credit you'll need to brave the minefield of sketchy knobs and ancient spinner SMC bolts that lead to the highest anchor. The section up to the 12a anchor has pretty good rock, but its basically thin crack climbing except for a few fun, juggy moves just below the anchor. The section immediately above the 12a anchor is very thin with no chalk whatsoever. There are many holds, but they're all small. If you veer more than a foot or so off the bolt line you'll likely pull something off. Of course, that might happen regardless of where you climb.
To the first anchors is 11a. The crux comes in the lower/middle as you traverse left on crimps. Cool moves through the crux yield to absolutely enormous jugs nearly all the way to the anchors. When the holds start to peeter out near the anchors, think sideways. A good climb and the most popular 11a at Smith.