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Magic Light 

5.12b

   

FA: 
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.12- [details]
Length: 2 pitches
Views: 616 page views

Submitted By: Peter Franzen on Jan 24, 2006


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Carmen clipping the anchor on Magic Light with Ove...


Description 

Shares the first couple of bolts with Overboard. Another great warmup if you only climb the lower 5.11b pitch as most people do. A thin and pumpy crux finishes off this fine pitch


Protection 

9 bolts to a bolted anchor, or keep going through 7 more to the top of the second pitch



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By Peter Franzen
Administrator
From: Portland, OR
Oct 22, 2006

A.K.A. "Traffic Light" due to the nonstop traffic on the first pitch.

By Karsten
From: Reno, NV
Nov 8, 2006

I would say the first pitch crux comes lower down with the traverse and thin crimpy sequence afterwards. The pump gets alot of people at the top but the moves are definately not thin there.

I have maybe seen one ascent of the second pitch. The first pitch is one of the best of the grade at Smith though.

By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Nov 27, 2006
rating: 5.12b

If you've ever wondered why Watts gives this route only 2 stars, try the extension. Apparently 4 stars plus zero stars divided by 2, equals 2 stars. A new anchor has been added on the extension that actually shortens the original 12b pitch by 2 bolts. Fear not, all the original hardware is still in place; its still entirely possible to climb the original sketchfest, but its no longer mandatory. The new anchor allows for TR-ing with a 70m rope, and is located at the end of the 'good' climbing, just below the upper crux. If you climb to the new anchor the route is a stiff 12a. To get full 12b credit you'll need to brave the minefield of sketchy knobs and ancient spinner SMC bolts that lead to the highest anchor. The section up to the 12a anchor has pretty good rock, but its basically thin crack climbing except for a few fun, juggy moves just below the anchor. The section immediately above the 12a anchor is very thin with no chalk whatsoever. There are many holds, but they're all small. If you veer more than a foot or so off the bolt line you'll likely pull something off. Of course, that might happen regardless of where you climb.

By Mark Gibson
From: Seattle, WA
Mar 25, 2009

To the first anchors is 11a. The crux comes in the lower/middle as you traverse left on crimps. Cool moves through the crux yield to absolutely enormous jugs nearly all the way to the anchors. When the holds start to peeter out near the anchors, think sideways. A good climb and the most popular 11a at Smith.