Seasonal raptor closure at Monument Area MORE INFO >>>
Rock climbing is not allowed 1/4 mile either side of the Monument due to a nesting pair of Golden Eagles. The birds are using Staender Ridge as a perch therefore it is also within the closure area. The trail which is on the backside of the Monument is open to through traffic, but hiking is not allowed around the cliff faces.
Another Morning Glory moderate. This is a good alternative to the adjacent 5 Gallon Buckets if there are people on it. It is margially more difficult than its neighbor with a crux coming towards the top.
The route is found between 5 Gallon Buckets and Gumby on the huecoed section of the Morning Glory Wall.
Really fun climb. Looks like it's rated a 5.9 if you start at 5 Gallon Buckets and move right (re: smithrock.com route guide and the watts guidebook), but if you climb straight up from under the anchors, the consensus seems to be a 5.10a (which I agree with). Fun start (when you get it). :)
It also seems like with the popularity of that particular area, it's good karma to climb the routes straight up, leaving bolts for the other routes free.
This is a great route if you're looking for something a little spicier than 5 Gallon Buckets. It gets the edging and crimping game warmed up for the rest of the delicate climbing in the Park.
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