Morning Glory Wall

Seasonal raptor closure at Monument Area MORE INFO >>> Rock climbing is not allowed 1/4 mile either side of the Monument due to a nesting pair of Golden Eagles. The birds are using Staender Ridge as a perch therefore it is also within the closure area. The trail which is on the backside of the Monument is open to through traffic, but hiking is not allowed around the cliff faces. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

morning glory

Description 

The Morning Glory Wall is home to some of the best and most popular routes at Smith. Sunny, warm, and accessable routes range from the ever-popular 5 Gallon Buckets (5.8) to the crimpfests like Churning In the Wake and Taco Chips. This area is often the place to be seen at Smith, and the popular routes will almost always have a group under them. Expect to wait in line for the most popular selections on busy weekend days.

Virtually all of the routes here are well-protected by bomber bolts and are on clean, solid rock.

Getting There 

The Morning Glory Wall stretches from the Cocaine Gully on the right to the Peanut on the left. From the bridge, follow the trails along the hillside past the gullies.

The Classics

Featured Route For Morning Glory Wall

Zebra/ Zion 5.10b  OR : Smith Rock : Morning Glory Wall

This is THE multipitch line at Smith!!!Pitch 1: The first pitch has many variations from 5.7 to 5.11. These lines share the first pitch anchor: Zebra Direct(5.11a), Zebra Seam (5.11d), and Gumby (5.10b) Take any of these lines to the first anchor.Pitch 2: (10.b) Move straight up into the right-facing dihedral. This pitch is traditionally thought of as the crux of the climb for both its technical moves off the belay and endurance re...[more]   Browse More Classics in OR