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Monkey Face
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East Face 

5.6 C2

   

FA: Kim Schmitz & Gerald Bjorkamn - summer 1964
Type: Trad, Aid
Consensus: 5.6 C2 [details]
Length: 3 pitches, 300 feet, Grade II
Views: 468 page views

Submitted By: corvegas on Feb 10, 2007


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P1 of the east face


Description 

This route also goes free at 5.13d!

P1 - C2 or 5.12c - aid or free the crack to a sling belay this pitch eats nuts.
P2 - C2 or 5.13d - aid the crack up past 4 added bolts placed by Alan Watts on his free attempt. belay from 2 brand new bolts.
P3 - 5.6 C1 or 5.10b - aid up the bolt ladder past one old belay to a slab to the summit. Many old bolts on this pitch.

P1 & P2 link with 60m rope. This takes more gear so you might want to back clean a little.


Location 

the only crack on the east face


Protection 

clean rack to 2" heavy on the nuts



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me on p2

me on p2


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By rpc
Mar 26, 2008

Done P1 before getting rained off. Pretty exciting for C2. Lots of wires.