Seasonal raptor closure at Monument Area MORE INFO >>>
Rock climbing is not allowed 1/4 mile either side of the Monument due to a nesting pair of Golden Eagles. The birds are using Staender Ridge as a perch therefore it is also within the closure area. The trail which is on the backside of the Monument is open to through traffic, but hiking is not allowed around the cliff faces.
This breathtaking arete will doubtlessly test your courage. Runout from the moment you leave the ground, only 6 bolts protect 80 feet of climbing!
Fear not, however, all of the hard moves are well protected. Typically the sequence goes like this: clip a bolt above your head, do a hard 5-foot boulder problem, then run it out for 10 feet of 5.9ish climbing to the next bolt, and repeat.
At the end, (just below the color change), traverse left to the anchors for the 12c first pitch of the East Face crack. There is a 7th bolt on the arete just above the traverse left. It's possible to climb up and clip this bolt, then climb down and execute the traverse.
A bolted extension to Spank the Monkey was recently freed by Tommy Caldwell at 5.13+.
Location
On the NE corner of the Monkey. Begin at the far right end of the E. Face/Rising Expectations/Just Do It ledge.
Protection
Bolts. Stick clip might be useful. It's not necessary to bring gear for the final East Face crack section, but you can if you want to.
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