Seasonal raptor closure at Monument Area MORE INFO >>>
Rock climbing is not allowed 1/4 mile either side of the Monument due to a nesting pair of Golden Eagles. The birds are using Staender Ridge as a perch therefore it is also within the closure area. The trail which is on the backside of the Monument is open to through traffic, but hiking is not allowed around the cliff faces.
This stellar crack system is one of the best routes on the Monkey, and easily the best crack of its grade at Smith. The crux crack pitch can be climbed in two pitches, but is much more classic and challenging as one mega pitch. Be sure to use a 60m rope for this option.
Considered by many to be 12b, the crux pitch requires a multitude of skills and abilities, not the least of which is the ability to place gear while pumped. The final traverse in to the West Face Cave will feel pretty desperate with 50m of rope hanging from your harness.
Location
North Face of the Monkey. Approach via Misery Ridge, and traverse the 5.6 choss band below Spank the Monkey.
Protection
At least 12 draws, and all the finger-sized cams you can scrounge. The crack takes nuts as well, if you want to pump out fiddling with gear.
By corvegas From: the depths of oregon Feb 10, 2007
the fa was done by dean caldwell and joe kindler in 1967 via the bolt ladder, then in 1968 tom bauman and bob ashworth did the regular start. alan lester really got the FFA via the bolt ladder in 1983, alan watts didnt free the line till 1985 but via the regular line.
By Monomaniac Administrator From: Morrison, CO Mar 5, 2007
If Lester climbed the bolt ladder then he didn't free the route (unless he climbs 5.16c), so how can he be credited with the FFA?
This is the best route I have climbed at Smith!!! It is much longer than full Henious, amazingly exposed, solid rock, and beautiful position. Small nuts were really useful and a number six metolious is the biggest cam you would need...lots of small cams and stoppers. Oh yeah, and this route is AMAZING!
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