The North Face  5.12a

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Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 400 feet, Grade III Consensus:  5.12a [details] FA:  Alan Watts Submitted By:  Monomaniac on Nov 29, 2006 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

On the Crux pitch of the North Face

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Seasonal Raptor Closure 2012 MORE INFO >>> For 2012 closure info, see smithrock.com/b2evolution/media/blogs/routes/eagle-closure-2>>> Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

This stellar crack system is one of the best routes on the Monkey, and easily the best crack of its grade at Smith. The crux crack pitch can be climbed in two pitches, but is much more classic and challenging as one mega pitch. Be sure to use a 60m rope for this option.

Considered by many to be 12b, the crux pitch requires a multitude of skills and abilities, not the least of which is the ability to place gear while pumped. The final traverse in to the West Face Cave will feel pretty desperate with 50m of rope hanging from your harness.

Location 

North Face of the Monkey. Approach via Misery Ridge, and traverse the 5.6 choss band below Spank the Monkey.

Protection 

At least 12 draws, and all the finger-sized cams you can scrounge. The crack takes nuts as well, if you want to pump out fiddling with gear.

Photos of The North Face Slideshow

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BETA PHOTO: Hanging out at the belay.