Karsten and Christian in space on Monkey Space's f...
Description
This variation to the Pioneer Route is the most popular way to ascend the monkey face free. It is classic in its own right.
Begin up the Pioneer or West Face Variation routes up the Monkey. Monkey Space starts at the bottom of the aid bolt ladder pitch.
1st Pitch: 5.11a Begin at the ledge atop the first pitch of the pioneer route. Head directly to the left and then up into a cool cave on the west side of monkey face on well placed bolts.
2nd Pitch: 5.11b Move to the north side of the cave and move up on steep, powerful moves but positive edges for a few moves and then move up slab to the summit.
By Aron Quiter Administrator From: Berkeley, CA Feb 28, 2006
Hmmm... I think the climb was two pitches, but I think it's worth mentioning that there are two pitches of the Poineer route that need to be done before you can split off and join Monkey Space.
That said....
HOLY SHIT! That crux step on the first pitch is a doozy. Definately reminded me why I'm afriad of heights.
While the physical crux is pulling out of the cave on the "second" (final?) pitch, the mental crux is on the first crossing through the traverse, looking out 500 feet below you.
I agree on the exposure of the traverse pitch. I fell at the crux on that pitch. I ended up in the air 6 feet away from the wall and my girlfriend belaying me ended up with bloody knuckles from being slammed into the wall. Spicy!
Some climbers might want to bring along a little gear for the finishing crack on the 1st pitch. The Watts guide lists gear as: Bolts (optional gear to 2 inches). When I did the route, we approached via Astro Monkey, and I was a little tired going into this pitch. I left our gear with my belayer, forgetting the part about optional gear and I sorta wished I had a piece to plug in when I was up at the diagonal crack. I was just tired enough that I easily envisioned myself taking the big plunge into that "space". I'd guess a fall from there would leave you hanging well away from the cliff and require prusiking.
By Peter Franzen Administrator From: Portland, OR Apr 13, 2008 rating: 5.11b
Magnificent route. The exposure is fantastic, and the climbing is a lot of fun.
I took a #0.5 and a #1 for the top of the first 5.11 pitch, and I'd recommend others to do the same. If anything else it prevents a nasty pendulum for the second should they fall after the last bolt.
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