Seasonal raptor closure at Monument Area MORE INFO >>>
Rock climbing is not allowed 1/4 mile either side of the Monument due to a nesting pair of Golden Eagles. The birds are using Staender Ridge as a perch therefore it is also within the closure area. The trail which is on the backside of the Monument is open to through traffic, but hiking is not allowed around the cliff faces.
Spicy. Climb the arete to the right of Tale of Two Shitties using the arete and crimps. The climbing and rock are excellent, the bolts are a bit spaced making it a lil' scary. Bolts anywhere other than where they are would be extremely hard to clip. Perhaps a bit hard for the grade (aren't all 10.d's at Smith?)
sweet climb. you'll wish it was longer, though you'll probably be pumped as it is. would be a "name" climb if it was on the frontside.
By Peter Franzen Administrator From: Portland, OR Sep 24, 2006 rating: 5.10d
Good climb but the bolt placements are pretty bad in my opinion. For both the second and third bolts I found stances a few feet below them that would've made much better places to clip from. It's nice and spicy though, which can be fun.
I actually felt that the crux came at the last couple of moves before the jugs at the top, just after clipping the final bolt. All the holds up there seem to be sidepulls making for a couple of delicate smears.
Also, as of Sept. 23rd, 2006 all of the bolts were spinners.
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