Old And In The Way 

FA:  ...give me a day, gotta check the book... Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.10c [details] Length:  1 pitch, 50 feet Season:  year round Views: 62 page views Submitted By: rpc on Mar 25, 2008 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Our friend Haydar belaying me up Old And In The Wa...

Description 

This 2-star route is typical of the Lower Gorge (my experience anyway): distinct curxes but not sustained (as opposed to 3- & 4-star lines). The first crux hits at the very bottom as you try to establish yourself in either a stem position or with both feet in the flared handcrack pod. Good rest awaits on ledge 15 feet up. Above, layback and/or stemming brings you to the upper crux: delicate stemming into another 6" wide pod. Once you get your feet in it, you've essentially done the route. Easier terrain (~5.8) brings you to anchors (on right side) atop Patent Leather Pump.

Location 

West side of Lower Gorge on Catwalk Cliff immediately left of Patent Leather Pump (which in turn is 50 feet left of Cruel Sister).

Protection 

Set of cams from smallest (black Alien or 00 TCU) to #2 Camalot. Double black Aliens (for me anyway), double yellow Aliens and double on #0.5 Camalots. This being at my limit, I found a #4 HB offset eased my mind on the start move but many things will work & strong leaders need not worry.