Cretin's Retreat 

FA:  to original anchors, Stu Stuller, Pete Pollard, 1981 entire route, Chuck Buzzard, 1983 Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.10c [details] Length:  1 pitch, 80 feet Views: 145 page views Submitted By: pointy on Nov 22, 2006 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Seasonal raptor closure at Monument Area MORE INFO >>> Rock climbing is not allowed 1/4 mile either side of the Monument due to a nesting pair of Golden Eagles. The birds are using Staender Ridge as a perch therefore it is also within the closure area. The trail which is on the backside of the Monument is open to through traffic, but hiking is not allowed around the cliff faces. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

It's the obvious corner in the middle of the crag. Stemming and jamming the finger crack gets you most of the way up, with the crux coming at the top when the crack runs out. This route shares a bolted anchor with The Ferret's Dead.

Location 

Parched Cat cliff, this is the first really obvious corner you encounter after scrambling down from the rim.

Protection 

Gear to 2.5 inches