East Side

Seasonal raptor closure at Monument Area MORE INFO >>> Rock climbing is not allowed 1/4 mile either side of the Monument due to a nesting pair of Golden Eagles. The birds are using Staender Ridge as a perch therefore it is also within the closure area. The trail which is on the backside of the Monument is open to through traffic, but hiking is not allowed around the cliff faces. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

The East side of the Lower Gorge contains a handful of basalt cliffs with plenty of worthy crack climbs. They're not quite the classics that are found on the West side and the long approach keeps away most climbers, but they're worth checking out.

Getting There 

Descend the main trail toward the river. Cross the bridge and follow a nice trail next to the river to the right. Make sure to stay near the river as alternate trails head to other areas of the park. Pass the student wall, a series of shorter columns, until you arrive at the longer columns of the lower gorge.

The Classics

Featured Route For East Side

Much Ado About Nothing 5.10d  OR : Smith Rock : ... : Shakespeare Cliff

Great crack climbing followed by an exciting roof make this a highly memorable climb.Start in a obvious crack just left of a flat face and right of a bolted column. Climb pleasant 5.9 hands with face holds up to a two bolt anchor with green chains...but don't stop there.Clip the anchor and work up and into the roof above. Climb a finger crack through the roof to a nice ledge above with a bolted anchor. Best to belay from above and rap off....[more]   Browse More Classics in OR