Seasonal raptor closure at Monument Area MORE INFO >>>
Rock climbing is not allowed 1/4 mile either side of the Monument due to a nesting pair of Golden Eagles. The birds are using Staender Ridge as a perch therefore it is also within the closure area. The trail which is on the backside of the Monument is open to through traffic, but hiking is not allowed around the cliff faces.
Easy moves lead to a thin, powerful, and somewhat awkward crux about 15 feet off the ground. After the crux the climbing eases to 5.10. Traverse left on a horizontal about 5/6 of the way up, bypass the original anchors and finish on the upper portion of Quasar to chain anchors.
Though rated 10d in the Watts guide, I thought the crux was more difficult than any 11b I have climbed in the Lower. There is evidence that a hold has recently (after the FA?) broken off at the crux.
Location
Begin in the seam just right of Quasar.
Protection
Very small to medium stoppers and cams to a #1 camalot or equivalent provide excellent pro. I placed a crucial (and bomber) #4 DMM wallnut at the crux.
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