Seasonal raptor closure at Monument Area MORE INFO >>>
Rock climbing is not allowed 1/4 mile either side of the Monument due to a nesting pair of Golden Eagles. The birds are using Staender Ridge as a perch therefore it is also within the closure area. The trail which is on the backside of the Monument is open to through traffic, but hiking is not allowed around the cliff faces.
This classic line shares the first bolt with Try To Be Hip (5.12a) and then soars straight up to a roof with a bolt. Before clipping the bolt at the roof with a 2' runner you must make difficult moves with microstoppers below you. Another crux is encountered after a short traverse right around the roof to a fixed piton. Finish up and right to anchors.
Protection
Mostly very small to medium stoppers are essential for protection. Very small to medium cams supplement the stopper placements. Rappel from anchors with webbing.
By Monomaniac Administrator From: Morrison, CO Mar 20, 2007
I agree this seems hard for 11a. Perhaps due to the 3 RP's I had to use to protect the first crux! I was stoked to clip that bolt at the roof. The crux after the roof isn't very hard once you figure it out, but its super devious. I must've been up there for 20 minutes(while on-sighting) climbing up and down, trying to figure out how to do that move.
This route also has a fixed pin protecting the upper crux (above the roof bolt). Its a BD Lost arrow. Its pretty rusty, but it looked solid to me (though I didn;t weight it).
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