Crime Wave 

FA:  Alan Lester, 1983 Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.11b [details] Length:  1 pitch, 80 feet Views: 171 page views Submitted By: Vernon Stiefel on May 30, 2006 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Seasonal raptor closure at Monument Area MORE INFO >>> Rock climbing is not allowed 1/4 mile either side of the Monument due to a nesting pair of Golden Eagles. The birds are using Staender Ridge as a perch therefore it is also within the closure area. The trail which is on the backside of the Monument is open to through traffic, but hiking is not allowed around the cliff faces. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

Once past the the initial 10', this excellent route is a technical face climb up the tips crack with gear for protection. I found crux moves 20' - 30' high and in the final 15'. Allegedly, a fixed piton(s) protected the upper crux section at one time but is no longer present. I used BD #2 and #3 microstoppers to sew up the seam, hence the PG13 rating.

Location 

Begin just right of Gruff on the right side of the Wildfire Wall.

Protection 

Many small camming units and very small - medium stoppers are required for pro. I didn't use anything larger than a #1 TCU. Rappel off of the anchors at the top of Gruff.