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Wildfire Wall
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Wildfire 

Try To Be Hip 

5.12a

   

FA: John Rich, 1988
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.12a [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 80 feet
Views: 343 page views

Submitted By: David Tvedt on Apr 5, 2006


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Description 

Multiple technical moves on small holds and insecure feet is the theme of this classic route. Try To Be Hip starts on the trad route, Out of Darkness. Clip one bolt and reach a crack (can place an optional piece) before veering left to clip the second bolt. Mantle onto the column and continue with a few easier moves before getting slammed with continuous challenging thin moves. While given 12a in the Watts guide, I think it deserves 12b.


Location 

Wildfire Wall on the south side of the Crooked River.


Protection 

Bolts with rap anchors at the top. Optional gear piece (I think I used a .75 C3) in the crack above the first bolt. While you could ground before the 2nd clip, the climbing is easy and the piece isn't really necessary. The first bolt protects a bulge move to the crack.



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By mark d
Apr 5, 2006

an unbelievably aesthetic line up remarkable rock. my favorite 12a in the park.

i do not agree with the 12b rating though.

By Vernon Stiefel
Apr 5, 2006
rating: 5.12a

The technical and sustained nature of this climb (challenging moves at every bolt) makes this route feel hard for the grade but I didn't encounter what seemed like 12b moves.

By David Tvedt
Apr 6, 2006

I changed the rating I gave to 12a. I should have registered why I might have thought it felt hard for the grade to me. I've only been on it once, at the end of a hot day in August. With my end of day fatigue, along with the heat and resulting poorer friction, the moves felt harder and I also couldn't fully appreciate those "split by good rests" that Alan Watts referred to in his guide and was feeling a pump. I agree that there are probably no "12b moves" on it. Definitely a route to do again!