This is one of the Mega-classics of the gorge and Smith. It is one of the finest handcracks you'll ever do. The crack starts as tight hands and gradually widens to fists at the top. Easily the most popular climb in the gorge be prepared to wait for this climb on nice days. Still, the wait is worth it!!!
Gear to 3.5 inches, couple of long slings for the anchor if TRing.
Chains at top
Ian low on Cruel Sister. Crack-a-no-go and Blood C...
High on CS
At the top of CS
Jan 30, 2006
Gorgeous route! Best crack of the grade at Smith?
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 16, 2006
Great climb, a bit underated for some (really 10c?), definitely challenging. Enjoy!
|By Andy Laakmann|
From: Bend, OR
Oct 22, 2006
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wow, fun stuff. All sizes of hands on this one, including a wide move or two at the top. Definitely bring a #4 Camalot for the top, and you might want to save a #3 Camalot for the top as well. The rest of the climb takes as many #0.5 through #2 Camalots as you can throw at it. Way better than Karate Crack imo.
|By Bryan Gartland|
From: Helena, MT
Dec 13, 2006
Can you get away with just two sets of cams on this one?
|By Ian McEleney|
From: at large
Dec 18, 2006
You can get away with one set of cams if you know how to place nuts. The crack isn't splitter the whole way, so there are lots of passive gear placements and hand locks. As Andy said save a #4 Camalot for the top (or a big hex?).
|By Max Tepfer|
From: Bend, OR
Mar 14, 2008
I might be biased as my first real experience with the 5.10 grade came in the Lower Gorge, but the grade 10a is definitely consistent w/other routes in the gorge. (Bloodclot, 10b is very similar w/a slightly harder, more sustained crux, ditto for Badfinger, and Last Chance, 10c is easily two letter grades harder than Cruel Sister. If you climb at other trad areas in Oregon, these grades are actually kind of soft...)
|By Alex Quitiquit|
From: Salt Lake City
May 29, 2013
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stout-ish for the grade as it doesn't really let up.
Save the #4 for the top, I didn't have it, wish I did. Takes nuts in a few places so look for them.