Seasonal raptor closure at Monument Area MORE INFO >>>
Rock climbing is not allowed 1/4 mile either side of the Monument due to a nesting pair of Golden Eagles. The birds are using Staender Ridge as a perch therefore it is also within the closure area. The trail which is on the backside of the Monument is open to through traffic, but hiking is not allowed around the cliff faces.
Quite different from the usual 12b at Smith. A powerful, overhanging, bouldery line. Begin up a short series of crimps and underclings to two good incut pockets. A powerful lockoff and pinch right where the overhangs characterizes the crux. An easy mantel follows. This is a very onsightable Smith 12b.
Location
Half way up the left side of the Gully. Directly left of Cocaine crack and right of Quest to Fire. It is the most overhung route in the area.
Protection
4 or 5 bolts and a two bolt anchor. Stick clip recommended.
There is a currently a big stick at the base of this route that is long enough to reach the first bolt. I also recommend a stick-clip; the climbing is not very difficult to the first bolt, but the move right off of the ground is a little awkward, and a fall from the bottom might result in a tumble down the hill.
This route is a lot of fun. All of the holds are pretty juggy, but it is steep and sustained, with not-so-great footholds through a lot of it. The crux is really just fighting off the pump.
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