Seasonal raptor closure at Monument Area MORE INFO >>>
Rock climbing is not allowed 1/4 mile either side of the Monument due to a nesting pair of Golden Eagles. The birds are using Staender Ridge as a perch therefore it is also within the closure area. The trail which is on the backside of the Monument is open to through traffic, but hiking is not allowed around the cliff faces.
BETA PHOTO: Vomit Launch on the left, Chicken McNuggets on the...
Description
If I didn't have a couple of nubbins pop on me while climbing this route I might give it 4 stars. It's a fun route with cool exposure and consistently fun climbing. It starts with a rather steep boulder problem (a stick clip makes it seem much less difficult) and then goes straight up a slightly slabby face with lots of nubbins.
This is the farthest right route on the right wall in the Cocaine Gully. Be careful not to knock rocks and pebbles down into the hole at the belay area; people crawling up through the tunnel don't like being rained on.
Protection
9 bolts and a bolted anchor. A stick clip is handy for protecting the bouldery bottom section before gaining the main face.
Very fun climb. I didn't encounter a single suspect nubbin. Everything felt very solid. The initial moves to the first bolt are challenging with a seriously bad fall potential but the clipping holds are good.
First bolt isn't all that hard, although I agree the fall would be v. ugly. The second bolt, though...it sure seemed desperate to me! Watts says left hand in the crack, but I was on the face. One bomber hold at the bolt, and you're golden.
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